Cracked valve body...

saturn · Jun 14, 2008

I recently redid my tub surround and installed a new American Standard (model 1675 Cadet) valve body.
After it was installed ,I turned on the water and it was tight as a drum ..not one hint of a leak.

I left the wall open for about a month under pressure ,just to be sure there were no leaks.
So everything was good so I went ahead and installed the cement board and the Kerdi overtop.

Still hadn't got around to the tiling ......lucky.

Yesterday I noticed a bit of dampness around the valve body cover plate (I had it on just for looks) took off the cover plate and noticed water shooting out through a hairline crack on the valve body just beside the hot water inlet.

My question is why would this take two months to happen, and is there any chance of repairing this, short of replacing the whole valve body.

The pictures are before and after.

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Jimbo · Jun 14, 2008

I would say there is no way I would try to repair that. I suppose it could be disassembled and braised...but why would you take a change with that? Besides, the crack will affect the threaded inlet.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Andrew21 · Jun 14, 2008

Get it replaced. Call the manufacturer and tell them what happend. You never dropped it nor is there any signs of neglect. You may have tightened that nut too hard but thats just a guess.

saturn · Jun 14, 2008

I was expecting that response (replace) but any ideas why it would take two months to spring a leak..

Could be scary if you are a plumbing contractor..

Before I installed it ,I looked inside and the casting was really rough...
I had looked at a Moen valve body and it was smooth as glass inside.

Knowing I will have to replace this valve body (and get my money back)..can you suggest the best brand to buy..Moen ..Danze... Delta ....ect...

Bob NH · Jun 14, 2008

Someone decided to save 2 ounces of brass on each valve.

I have seen a lot of cases where materials have been shaved down. I recently got a supply of Schedule 40 PVC fittings that were a little shorter than the old ones. I checked the ASTM standard and found that they had been produced to the absolute minimum depth of socket. All of the older ones had socket depths that were greater than the minimum.

I have recently had PVC reducing bushings 3" x 1", marked Schedule 80 but they look like Schedule 40, where the space around the 1" part is very thin with a few fins connecting it to the 3" part. It makes the part very fragile where a reducing bushing used to be extremely robust.

saturn · Jun 14, 2008

Thank you Bob for you quick reply..can you or any other members recommend a good ..solid valve body...

Sandpiper Plumbing · Jun 14, 2008

I usually recommend Moen but recently haven't been too impressed with the new Posi-Temp valve body since they redesigned it a little...seems too thin to me now. Kohler may be the way to go instead....and stay away from the home centers like Cheapo Depot and Blowes. Spend a couple of extra sheckles and buy from a supply house or kitchen/bath showroom.
Want a bulletproof valve...buy a Grohe.

hj · Jun 15, 2008

valve

Functionally, I prefer the Delta valve body with the 1700 trim. It gives separate temperature and volume controls, rather than the off or full flow of the ones that control the temperature with the same lever that turns it on.

Redwood · Jun 15, 2008

Welcome to the world of Am. Std. plumbing products...
The land where you get to do the job twice!
The land where quality control has a holiday everyday!

Just my $0.02 return it and get a Moen or, a Delta!

Jimbo · Jun 15, 2008

I can see about 2Â½ to 3 threads on the male adapter, and based on that, I would not see overtightening as an issue, unless the threads on the body were under-spec.

Did it feel like you had to turn to hard to get that male adapter in to where it is?

Don't let them try to tell you it is overtightened, because it is SO unlikely that any normal person with normal tools could even do that!

saturn · Jun 15, 2008

It went in pretty easy, just like all the rest....still puzzled as why it would take over a month to crack.

Thanks for all your helpful suggestions...this is the best plumbing advice forum on the net.

Sandpiper Plumbing · Jun 15, 2008

It cracked because of poor casting and cheap brass. I'll bet that somewhere on that valve was a sticker that said "made in China". I had a 6-plex with two baths each, with customer supplied Price-Pfister tub/shower valves and I split some of those by screwing in male adaptors. Was some of the worst casting I'd ever seen. Another "quality" Chinese product.

saturn · Jun 15, 2008

One thing that really surprised me, was the insulation I used.

It's called Roxul and it's a mineral wool,I think it's only available in Canada.
Everything in the wall was soaked, 2x4's, drywall..everything, but the insulation only had beads of water on the surface.
It did not soak into it like normal fiberglass.
The company claims it repels water and I proved it.

Not trying to push the product, just trying to inform people of new innovations..

http://www.roxul.com/sw34143.asp

Jadnashua · Jun 15, 2008

The stuff is not new....their version of it might be, though.

saturn · Jun 15, 2008

Sandpiper Plumbing said:
It cracked because of poor casting and cheap brass. I'll bet that somewhere on that valve was a sticker that said "made in China". I had a 6-plex with two baths each, with customer supplied Price-Pfister tub/shower valves and I split some of those by screwing in male adaptors. Was some of the worst casting I'd ever seen. Another "quality" Chinese product.

Finally got it out and checked ..not China but MEXICO ...

Same place they make some GM trucks...No offense to GM I have 2 of them myself..

hj · Jun 16, 2008

Mexico

And soon to be Hershey's chocolate.

Redwood · Jun 16, 2008

"Hecho en Mexico" The good stuff from American Standard!

I have found that about 50% of their product is defective right out of the box. I do not install it unless it's customer supplied! Chances are that if you get another one you will be due to get a good one... Do you feel lucky?

saturn · Jun 18, 2008

Am I correct in assuming, only Moen and Delta faucets are made in America...and with your members years of experience...recommend one over the other ..

Is their a certain price range at which the quality of the valve body gets better , or are we just paying for fancier finishes and design ...

Jadnashua · Jun 18, 2008

No, I don't think that's correct. There's no guarantee much of anything is actually made here based on a particular brand name (there are a few holdouts). American cars have components made elsewhere, and could just as well be made in Mexico or Canada.

Everyone has their favorite brand, many of the pros here like Delta.

Up to a point, you get what you pay for, after that, you're paying for fancy finishes and design features that don't affect the operation, only the look (and sometimes, the longevity).

A solid brass body with quality plating is still an expensive operation, especially when you add some curves. Smoothing the casting takes some hand labor, which is expensive. There's only so much you can do with castings without hand labor to make them presentable.

saturn · Jun 21, 2008

Maybe you will believe this ..took back my defective ,(American Standard (model 1675 Cadet valve body.)) back to Home Cheapo and asked for a refund..What was wrong with it, she asked..I said it blew up. Expecting an argument ..I was sorely disappointed.
She took the box (I just threw stuff in there ..no original packaging) and she gave me a refund..without even opening the box.

Now it gets good ...wandered around the store for a bit..then went back to the faucet section to find a Delta 1700..model.

Lo and behold ..on the cheap side of the faucets was a box that looked familiar..beat up , opened ...It was my returned ..,1675 Cadet.
I just hope no one is stupid enough to grab this open box product and buy it.

I did buy a nice delta faucet ..polished so good you need sunglasses...
The quality compared to an AS product is unreal...

Cracked valve body...

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