Water has egg smell

[rstier]

Hi,
We recently moved to a home that has well water. The drilled well is 275' deep. There is a Culligan Water Conditioner and a whole house carbon filter. We noticed a strong egg smell (sulfur) everytime we ran the water when we moved in. At first I blamed my wife for eating too much chili but I soon realized it was not her.

I swapped out the whole house carbon filter with a new one and that seemed to help. A week later, the smell is back. Any suggestions on what we can do. I hate to add another device inline with the water softener and carbon filter (for cost and possible loss of H2O pressure). We do have a RO Unit for the icemaker and kitchen sink tap, so at least our drinking water is good.

Thanks!
Ron

[jadnashua]

Depending on the concentration of sulfur compounds in your water, you can quickly overload/exhaust a carbon filter. You might need to loook into some other method of removing it. My unprofessional opinion.

[jrejre]

I have this problem only occasionally (seasonally). What I do it put 1 lb of HTC down the well and then pour two 5 gallon pails of clear, untreated water down afterward to was the HTC off the pump, wires etc.

I let it stand 24 hours or at least over night, then run the faucet for 1 hour wide open to flush fresh water through the whole system.

This takes care of my problem for months. I do have a bit of a chlorine smell for the first 2 or 3 days after treatment, but nothing intolerable.

[rstier]

Thanks to both for the replies. In regards to the HTC, that is just the powdered chlorine for pools correct? After flushing for a bit 24 hrs later, would there be any ill effects to the drinking water having that level of chlorine in it? I know public supplies use it but wasn't sure of the ratio. As I mentioned, we have a R.O. system specifically for drinking water, so it shouldn't matter too much with the chlorine.

[jrejre]

Yes, I believe it is the same stuff. However, I buy mine at my local well/plumbing supply house. I buy it each time and just enough for 1 application. I don't like the stuff sitting around the house.

They told me the amount. It was 1 or 2 lbs. (I'm pretty sure 1 lb). It was measured out into a small, quart sized container and fillls up about 1-2" from the bottom. It's not much, but it's very concentrated.

The only problems afterward is that my youngest daughter doesn't like to take showers because the mild chlorine burns her eyes. I should probably just let more clear water run.

If you have a local well/plumbing house, I'm sure they can help too.

FYI - I used to just pour a gallon of chlorine bleach down into the well and then flush it. If you read the bottle, I don't think any of the bleach is chlorine any more. So, I stopped that.

p.s. To be clear, I'm just your average DIY homeowner. You should double check your application with someone familiar with your specific well setup.

[Gary Slusser]

A.... do a google etc. web search for chlorine byproducts; specifically THMs and DBPs (disinfection byproducts). And be damned careful of what type chlorine you use for potable water treatment. Pool chlorine is different than the FDA approved chlorine for potable water use. Then see if you can find anything mentioned about the potential negatives to the well, the casing, your pump and cable, the drop pipe and other water quality problems that shocking a well can cause.

Also look up the proper means of shocking a well using the proper amount of chlorine. Check out the label on major brands of bleach and you'll see a warning/caution of it not to be used for potable water treatment.

Gary
Quality Water Associates

[rstier]

Thanks for the advice, it's much appreciated! :)

[master plumber mark]

does this water smell worse on the cold side or on the hot side???

If it is stronger on the hot side, take the magnesium rod out of the water heater and see if the smell does not subside...

[rstier]

The smell is worse on the cold water side. We also don't have a separate water heater as it is a tankless furnace.

[Gary Slusser]

The smell is worse on the cold water side. We also don't have a separate water heater as it is a tankless furnace.

The use of regular carbon for H2S removal is not the best choice in many cases. Doing so when bacteria are present in the water usually causes the carbon to fail quickly. That bacteria would be any type of reducing bacteria. For successfu treatment, that type of bacteria must be killed because they colonize all types of water treatment equipment which prevents them from working. I like an inline erosion pellet chlorinator followed by a special mixing/retention tank and then a special type carbon to clarify the water and remove the chlorine. That chlorinator does not require the constant babysitting of a solution feeder and the special minxing tank prevents the need for a large (120 gal+) retenetion tank.

Gary
Quality Water Associates

[captwally]

Might I add my 2 cents worth, though the problem may be solved by now... It isn't cheap, but adding and Iron Filter before the water softener will remove Hydrogen Sulfide which causes the smell. Better yet, aeration, but not the old fashion way with huge tanks. Look into the new Iron Curtain systems. They are compact and very effective. They filter Iron and aerate H2S out of the water. You will notice that if you leave a pitcher of your smelly water on the counter overnight, it will not smell in the morning because the smelly stuff (Hydrogen Sulfide) has dissapated into the air. The Iron Curtain is based on that same principle.

[rstier]

Thanks for the advice on the Iron Curtain systems. It looks like the Iron Curtain 2.0 is the newest model. They didn't look too compact but maybe compared to other manufacturers they are. Any idea on the price range?

Here is a link to the Iron Curtain site:
http://www.hellenbrand.com/page.aspx?page_id=56

[Gary Slusser]

That's an air pump system. You can buy them for a lot less if you buy from an internet dealer. They also come in different sizes and configurations as to the mineral in the filter. You can do a web search for "air pump" + 2510.

Gary
Quality Water Associates

[peterd]

Gary,

Does this (http://www.problemwater.com/if_cfpump.html) really work for IRB?

Thanks

[Gary Slusser]

That's an air pump system, although I didn't see what mineral is in the turbidity filter; which I use Centaur carbon myself. It's a very good choice for iron and/or H2S BUT, you can't use it if you have IRB. Or any other reducing type bacteria in the water. If you're interested in it, get his price and then shop to see how it compares.

I suggest the Clack WS-1 control valve instead of the 2510 he uses. You can't rebuild the 2510 with the special Fleck tools for it, but the 2510 is a great valve. It usually costs more than the Clack WS-1 though, and it doesn't need any special tools... ;)

Gary
Quality Water Associates

[SirBuckley]

I would like to look into buying one of these Iron Curtain or similar type systems. My local dealer has quoted me $1675 to install an Iron Curtain. I would like to buy one cheaper and install it myself.

[palmstate]

You may need to bleach all of the water lines in your house. It is usually required on new construction and as a treatment with the water heater when that sulfer smell appears.

[Gary Slusser]

I can sell an air pump system but it may not be what you need or as good as another choice. What and how much of it is in your water that you expect an air pump to remove?

If it is H2S, is it in both hot and cold or only hot water? Do you have iron in the water and if so, how much? What is the pH of your water? Is it hard? Have you hag a Coliform bacteria test done recently?

A hot water only odor is caused by SRB (sulfate reducing bacteria) and you must kill it to get rid of the odor but bleach will only do it temporarily and then the odor comes back.

[engharrison]

I have this same problem with my well, I called my well driller friend, and he said my tank was water logged. He pulled my pump out of the ground, and did something to it. when he left, the water was great, but after about 4-5 months its doing it again. Maybe your wells like that too. I've heard to put pool chlorine in there too, but I am afraid of using chemicals for things that they were not designed for. ( sorry, been on the local haz-mat team too long I guess)

[Gary Slusser]

Because of the inhibitors in pool chlorine, it should never be used on/in a well or other type 'potable' water system. Actually the only product specifically approved USDA grade chlorine pellets for potable water use. Water treatment dealers have them or can get them.