Sink Tailpipe Issues

Shluffer

Shluffer

Member
Messages
90
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
Connecticut
I pulled the trap on my bathroom sink to replace it and the flange on the tailpipe came off with the trap (it was significantly caroded). I figure its time to pull out the tail pipe and replace it. In the past when I have pulled out tailpipes, they have easaly slid out with a small amount of pressure. This one won't budge. Is it possible that it is screwed in somehow (with a pressure washer or threads)? How do I get the thing off? The current pipe is caroded to the point that when I tried to pull it of, the "j" part came off in my hand.

Thanks for the help.
 
Sometimes even when they have a slipnut and washer they get rusted in. and then its fun getting them out. you can use a hammer and eaither chisel or screw driver to get in between the drain pipe and the trap arm and break up the piece of trap arm in the pipe and take it out in pieces or pry it out.
 
I took a look and didn't see a nut. I'll check again. I don't mind hitting it with some propane to see if it will pop out. If it is soldered, should I solder the new one in, or is it good enough to just slide it in as I have done in the past? Would sliding it in create a leak?

thank you for replying so quickly.
 
shluffer said:
. If it is soldered, should I solder the new one in, or is it good enough to just slide it in as I have done in the past? Would sliding it in create a leak?.
Click to expand...
If it was soldered, then you should resolder another in its place. If you only slide it in without soldering, you probably will have a leak eventually, if not instantaniously.

If your new trap is chrome plated, I recommend to file some chrome off the tubing until you see the brass, near the soon to be solder joint, to make a good bond
 
Figured it out:

p4270163caf0.jpg


p4270165cgh7.jpg
 
It looks like there maybe a nut just inside the wall. It doesn't look like it is soldiered in. You will need to open the wall a little either way so open the wall a little around the pipe and lets see what you have.
 
If it is soldered in then just remove the solder bushing and replace it with galvanized nipple or a plastic adapter.
 
In the end, I decided that I was unwilling to cut away any of the tiles. I picked up a new tailpipe, and a coupling. I cut the pipe coming out of the wall close to the wall and hooked the coupling up to it. I then attached the trap. After that, I cut the new tailpipe so that it would fit in the coupling on one side and into the trap on the other. I ran water through it and declared it a success.

Thanks for the help!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Redrabbitdownthehole
Need ID: Is This a Trap Adapter Flare (Floor Drain ‘Mushroom’)?
Replies
1
Views
303
Reach4
Reach4
T
Kitchen sink drain replacement
Replies
1
Views
413
Sylvan
Sylvan
C
Air pressure for Thermal Expansion Tank above Water Heater
Replies
12
Views
791
Jeff H Young
Jeff H Young
Bodrey
Kitchen drain issue
Replies
1
Views
543
Reach4
Reach4
O
vanity drain p trap set-up questions
Replies
0
Views
175
outerrichmond88
O
Back
Top