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abpsimple
04-15-2008, 10:34 AM
Ok well ive had a few problems with the flapper chain getting caught up preventing the water to fill, but this has me completely baffled.

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/7175/58824786ie4.jpg

Ok now I do not know the correct terms for the parts, but thats why I have included a picture. The red line is pointing to the device that will leak water from the gray lever, but will not fill up the tank with anymore water. The green line is pointing to the device that will not shoot water out. Only after i turn my shower on for a few seconds does water start to come out. I turn my shower off and it flows normally. This picture was taken after i had turned the shower on.

Im sorry if this a little confusing, haha im just really trying to figure out how i can fix this. If anyone has any idea pleasssssse let me know. Thanks!!!

westcoastplumber
04-15-2008, 11:18 AM
sounds to me like the fill valve is bad, replace it.

the shower thing, running the shower may reduce the pressure and cause the diaphram in the fill valve to operate........although I think it is just a coinky dink.

replace the fill valve, that one is a fluidmaster.

replace the supply line while your at it. using old supply lines tend to cause leaks.

westcoastplumber
04-15-2008, 11:29 AM
oh yeah, by the way, I would check the water pressure to see, you should have between 60-80psi.

when you turnt he shower on, are you turning the cold or the hot on????

abpsimple
04-15-2008, 12:50 PM
im just turning on the cold. is the fill valve the big black thing? and the supply line is that rubber piping correct?


thanks a lot!

westcoastplumber
04-15-2008, 01:05 PM
im just turning on the cold. is the fill valve the big black thing? and the supply line is that rubber piping correct?


thanks a lot!


Yeah, the fill valve has the word fluidmaster on it, with the float.

by you turning on the cold, must be causing a pressure difference and causing the diaphram to operate.

the supply line connects the angle stop, or water supply to the fill valve, outside the tank.

make sure you do not put the new black tube down into the douglas valve or flush valve, or it will siphone.

you can always take the easy way out, and pull the ring around the bottom of the fill valve, to make an adjustment, pull that out and slide a new one on top, leaving the post and the supply line installed.

I never do this because I have to warranty my work.

Cass
04-15-2008, 01:07 PM
What ever is making the tank brown (iron / rust) is clogging the fill valve...replace it and it should work.

manny1602
04-15-2008, 02:24 PM
Wouldn't replacing the Fluidmaster seal do the trick?

jadnashua
04-15-2008, 02:57 PM
Maybe replacing just the seal will work...it's cheap and quick, so it is worth a try. Replacing the whole fill valve doesn't cost that much, but you may want to consider replacing the hose from the shutoff to the new fill valve while you are at it...they wear out, too. Course, with an old water wasting toilet, you may want to consider that it's time to replace the whole thing.

hj
04-15-2008, 04:11 PM
Replacing the whole head is a more postive repair and easier because he will not have to worry about inverting the seal.

manny1602
04-15-2008, 04:34 PM
Maybe not such a positive repair for the average home owner if the valve leaks at the tank and supply line after a complete exchange whereas a swap of the seal (of course putting it in the same way as the original one) is a matter of minutes.
I'm not an expert, but what else would in the above case be necessary to be replaced?

Redwood
04-15-2008, 09:02 PM
Want to see it work... Turn off the angle stop valve then turn it back on it will work for one cycle! I'd replace the whole valve, supply line and flapper... Call it a good working toilet!