Leaking Drain Body on Faucet Replacement

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wjlebair

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I've have replaced my bathroom sink and faucet. I now have a brand new pedestal sink and have attached a new Price Pfister facuet assembly. The model number is "972-070". I have tried to attach this twice now, and both times it has ended up leaking at the point underneath the sink where the drain body attaches. It appears that the rubber washer, after the locknut has been tightened appropriately (at least I believe it has been tightened properly) is not seating well enough to/into the the drain opening. The installation directions indicate that the rubber washer must "seat securly inside the Drain Opening". I focus on the word "into" as the rubber washer still peaks out a bit on the botom and can be wiggled around a bit if pushed/manipulated by hand.

My concern is that if I tighten the nut too much that things may start to fracture/break (ie, the drain body itself, the porceline sink, etc). I've used all the stuff that folks say to use- plumbers putty, tape- all that. I know where the leak is- I just can't stop it.

Any suggestions?
 

Jimbo

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Often, the leak in the area you describe is on the threaded body of the drain. The mack gasket is too thick and not soft enough, to "reach into" the threads. The easy solution is to take it apart, and smear plumbers putty onto the threads, such that in essence the threads are all filled with putty. Then put it back in. The putty helps the washer seal, and prevents drops of water from traveling down the threads.

Unless there is a crack or defect on the bottom of the sink, that surface should seal. Just in case, you can add silicone caulk, to the bottom of the sink and let the mack gasket bed into that.
 

wjlebair

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First let me thank you for the quick reply, but I feel that the leak is not coming down thru the threads, but when I try this again I will coat the threads with the plumbers putty as suggested- just in case! Great suggestion! Thanks.

Now, if I can be more specific. The mack gasket, as you call it, is rounded on one side- the side that is up. It's not flat on both sides. And, as such, the assembly can wobble/move about if the lower portion of the drain body (below the rod ball opening) is moved around (even just a tad). Don't get me wrong- this bad boy has been tightened up alot. Maybe too much? Can you comment on how much is enough, or too much???

Here's a website and picture of what I am refering to:

http://www.pricepfister.com/website/documents/Products/PRD_8art_15686_ex-048-08.pdf

Look down on the "Part Exposion", page 2, bottom right hand "ALL PLASTIC" picture (972-075). The rubber washer/mack gasket is rounded on top, and that is where the water appears to be leaking from after being mated to the sink bottom. Again, with it being rounded, it has the ability to wobble. I'm wondering if, in addition to your suggestion to add some silicone caulk to the bottom of the sink, I can replace this gasket with a flat (on both sides) one thereby ensuring no ability to wobble. Does this all make sense?

Also, here's the installation manual link: https://pricepfister.custhelp.com/c...&p_tbl=9&p_id=53&p_created=1113496200&p_olh=0

Page 4, step 11 shows the steps I followed on installation. This manual is not exactly like mine- why, I don't know. But se can see how much the Rubber Washer has been seated up into the under side of the Drain opening. Again, how much is too much?

Bill
 
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Jimbo

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Don't use a different gasket. The nut should be tightened quite snug. When tightened enough, there should not really be any movement of the tail unless you really tweak it. Make sure you have the friction washer part 11d in place, or you will not be able to get the nut tight enough

Might have to take it all apart and do a close inspection of the bottom of the sink for a major crack. You should not have this much trouble. Only thing you might be doing wrong now is not tight enough.
 

Redwood

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I usually coat the threads with teflon paste such as Megaloc where the mack washer will land. I feel it allows easier tightening than putty would.
 

wjlebair

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Latest Update...

Thanks for the feedback from Jimbo and Redwood. To be honest, and I'm at work now, I may not have caught the Friction washer not being in place. I will check for that when I get home tonight. I think it's there though. But here's what happened yesterday when I called Price Pfister.

The tech guy didn't seem to be that knowledgable- go figure. His immediate answer to the problem was to send out a completely new drain body- top to bottom. And when I tried to ask more about what I might be doing wrong, I heard alot of typing, not alot of feedback/suggestions. In the end I realized I was getting more out of conversing with you guys than I was with him. And get this- they are sending me a new Drain Body, but this one will be made completely of metal, not like the plastic one that was in the packaging. He explained that this would most definately work out better. I thought, "wow, what a waste of money, time, and resources on their part"- why they didn't just put quality parts in the packaging to begin with I don't know. I can guess that it boiled down to money, but that's only a guess. I even asked him that question. Needless to say, he didn't have an answer for that- in fact, he sounded a bit put off by my asking...

Anyhow, the new part should be delivered Friday. I will try it again, with all your suggestions and see what happens- and I will tighten it appropriately. I agree, it shouldn't be this difficult. And I'll check the base of the sink for crack/hairline also...

Thanks, and take care...
 

wjlebair

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Last, but not least...

All is well in my neighborhood. The seal is tight as a drump....no leak, no foul!!!

As a final side note...the Big Box store you refer to turns out to be "The Great Indoors"- an extremely high end, high quality home furnishing store. I am very surprised that this low quality part was ever sold by them- but then again, I guess you never know, until you know...you know???

Anyway- thanks again to everyone who helped out. I took several pieces of advice and factored them into the end item. I think it really helped out a great deal. Take care...

Bill
 

Terry

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I do what Jimbo does, smear a little putty in the threads, or the pipe dope would work there too.

Water like to run down the threads.
I think it's funny that all the plumbers know that trick, but none of the people that make the faucets.
 

Redwood

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Water like to run down the threads.
I think it's funny that all the plumbers know that trick, but none of the people that make the faucets.

Maybe the manufacturers need to hire more plumbers instead of engineers?:eek:
 
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