View Full Version : Fixing a previously bothched toilet install

03-14-2008, 11:45 PM
Had an occassional leak with my toilet (rear discharge). After bringing in a professional turned out the problem was the pitch of outlet being too flat. The plubmer did a few things in the wall, but in essence the solution revolved around raising the toilet (and I maybe the carrier) about 1.5 inches to get the right pitch. FYI. I actually wasn't home when any of the work was done...

So now I need to repair the wall and re-tile. And figure out a better solution for the toilet which now sits upon an 1.5 plaster pedestal. Decided it may be the right time to replace the ugly pink tile altogether too. In looking into a bit more from what I can see in the wall and the research i've done on the internet whomever originally installed this toilet created the problem. Clearly the carrier in the wall was designed for a wall hung toilet. What was installed is a floor mount, rear discharge toilet. Hence why the toilet was too low and the pitch too flat. So I want to do a project whereby I replace the toilet with a wall hung and install it properly. I'm considering the American Standard Glenwall as it looks solid, price is right, and some of you said its decent.

My question is, I'm a rookie and what am going to need to do install this bad boy? I don't know what kind of carrier I have, no insrtuctions, and certainly not all the parts. Assuming the thing is firmly mounted in the wall and I don't need to disturb that, what other parts will i need to buy and what the order of installation? (what gets done before finishing the wall and what after)

Certainly I'll need the steel posts that attach to the carrier and extend out thru the finished wall. What type of nuts/washers/etc to attach them to the carrier, and what nuts/washer/etc to attach the glenwall to them? (glenwall instructions say follow carrier instructions which i don't have) What other piping/outlet/sleeve/ring/etc will I need besides what comes with the glenwall? Let assume the sewer pipe is properly connected to the back of the carrier, but that everything between the carrier and the existing toilet is garbage.

THANKS in advance for any help!!

-Mark in NYC

03-15-2008, 09:36 AM
The carrier kits come with the brackets, outlet for the fitting, bolts to mount bracket to wood studs, chrome toilet cap nuts, and rubber seal.

Of the standard wall mount toilets, the Glenwall (http://www.terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25073) would be a good choice.
I sell quite a few of those in Seattle.
They have a little thump when they flush, but the also never clog.

Making it a wall hung, will improve the floor situation.
I grew up with wall hung toilets, there are some advantages to them.

Now, since there are so few choices in them, I plumb for floor mount bowls. It's easier to get a bowl to flush down, then out the back.

03-15-2008, 04:32 PM
So I can buy a carrier kit that includes all the acccessories without having to buy an entirely new carrier?? I prefer avoid the expense of a whole new carrier as the existing carrier seems to be fine and solidly mounted (besides the fact its miising all the accessories to actually mount a wall hung toilet as it is currently attached to a florr mount model)

BTW- I can make out on the existing carrier that it says "Wade" in the middle and "Siphone Jet" at the top. Middle is heard to read but maybe W-340-FP or W-310-FP....

Thanks again.

And BTW- Anyone know a reputable contractor I could hire in NYC for some or all of this job if I decide to go the professioanl route?

03-16-2008, 07:51 AM
One problem with the carrier is that for a floor mounted bowl the carrier does not have to secured as rigidly as for a wall mound so it could move under the weight of a wall mount and a user. I would question how he was able to raise the outlet pipe even a 1/4" since they are screwed into the carrier and do not move, but that would also mean that the original installation could not have had a downward pipe unless the carrier were off level.