Release Valve leaking??

I have an electric water heater it is probably 7 years old give or take.
I have noticed that water is draining out of the release valve all the time it is not a lot but it is constant.
When i shut off the water to the tank it still drains.
I am not a plumber by a long shot I am thinking the release valve must be broken or something. I tried draining some water from the actual drain at the bottom but that did not seem to really help. I also hear air like it is in the line or something. It sounds like that is coming from the release valve as well.
DO i need to just replace the release valve?
If that is not an easy task what would i expect to pay someone to do that in the Cincinnati area? Hopefully less that the cost of replacing my tank.

Thanks!!

It very well may be the TP valve is bad. These are readily available at any hardware store for around $15. They are easy to change, so that would be my first step. To change it, first turn the water intake off. Then remove the pipe that runs down the side of the heater to the floor. Next, remove the old TP. You will need either Teflon tape or pipe dope to coat the threads of the new TP before you screw it in to the tank. Tighten it up, replace the pipes you removed, and turn the water back on. There's no need to turn the electricity off or drain the tank to do this, although it might be a good time to drain the tank. This should be done yearly anyway. Be sure you turn the power off before you drain the tank. You'll need to hook a hose up to the drain, and open a hot water faucet in the house to break the air lock. Once it's drained, refill the tank, leaving the hot water faucet open until all of the air is out of the line and the water is running freely. Then turn the power back on. If you need a plumber, I believe Cass, a regular here, is in the Cincinnati area. You can find one of his post and send him a Private Message.

re

Ok I thought that was probably it. I started to drain the tank and it seem to drain very slow is that normal? When draining the tank should I turn the water to the tank off or leave that valve open and just turn off the water to the whole house?
I can use just any TP Valve for an electric water heater??


Thanks

drain

You can open that "release valve" to let the heater drain faster, and you have to know whether your valve has a long or short shank. The thickness of the insulation determines which you need.

The T&P Valve opens for 1 of 4 reasons.
1 Temperature: If the temperature goes higher than the temperature rating of the valve it will open.
2 Pressure: if the pressure goes higher than the pressure rating of the valve it will open.
3 Test lever: If you lift the test lever it should open. If it doesn't it needs to be replaced.
4 Failure: If the valve has failed and is leaking it should be replaced.

A small constant stream could indicate either failure or excessive pressure. I would take a pressure reading and post back with it. Use a small inexpensive gauge sold at many hardware stores that screws onto a hose bibb.

There are several different sizes and ratings available tell the counterman at the plumbing supply house what you are doing with it and the water heater type and size and he'll give you the right one.

The old valve normally has a tag on it with all of the specs...copy this down or take it with you and you'll be sure to get the right one. But, the valve could be okay and you have excessively high pressure. You'd probably notice if the water was excessively hot, but as mentioned before either of those things can cause the valve to release water. Sounds like it is bad, though. At 7-years, the tank could last another 7, or die tomorrow. While you're mucking around, you might consider replacing the anode rod. If everything else is okay, that may extend the life significantly. They're cheap, but sometimes a major pain to unscrew.

If replacing the anode rod I use a cordless impact wrench. It works well!

thanks

I will check it out and go to the hardware store on my way home from work.

As far as testing the water pressure what should a normal psi be? I thought around 120 or something??

The water temperature seems fine. What degree should that be set at on the water heater?

Thanks again

Anything above 80# should be regulated...60# is a good place to start. 120 is too high.

re

ok i was just guessing on the psi what about water temp what should i set that too. I think it is set up how it was out of the box, but it's been so long i forget

Psi

Ok so i tested the psi from the tank(hooked the pressure tester gauge to the drain on the tank) It read 90psi.
I then test my outside faucet it was 115 PSI.
Does this mean I need a pressure regulator? Are they hard to install?

Thanks

gtjr921 said:

Ok so i tested the psi from the tank(hooked the pressure tester gauge to the drain on the tank) It read 90psi.
I then test my outside faucet it was 115 PSI.
Does this mean I need a pressure regulator? Are they hard to install?

Thanks

Click to expand...

115 psi is high. You need to install a pressure regulator and an expansion tank. If you know how to solder it is very easy. If your not sure call a plumber.

Do you have one of these installed on the water supply line into your house?
Or, something that appears to be very close to it?

gtjr921 said:

(hooked the pressure tester gauge to the drain on the tank) It read 90psi.
I then test my outside faucet it was 115 PSI.
Thanks

Click to expand...

Someone please tell me how that is possible (I guess I'm used to city pressure already being regulated)..

If you have 115psi coming in, then the HWT should be 115psi unless you have a pressure regulator already installed before it goes into the tank.


Hot water temp in my area is a minimum 135-140 degrees at the tank and ,(they recently passed a local bylaw in the last 2 years )a mixing valve must be installed at the HWT exit to reduce the temp to 110-120 degrees.

There may be one after the hose bibb or there may have been some fluctuation in the pressure.

re

Redwood said:

Do you have one of these installed on the water supply line into your house?
Or, something that appears to be very close to it?

Click to expand...

I will look I am not sure exactly where to look. I know where my water meter is outside in my yard under ground, would that be where is is.
If i do have one of those does adjusting that screw adjust the water pressure?
Or what should I do??

Thanks

It may be in the meter box or it may be in the house usually somewhere near where the line enters the house.

You can try adjusting the screw but usually it doesn't work. It was probably adjusted at the time of installation and has failed needing replacement.

It may be the pressure regulator valve is after the outside hose bib. I have that arrangement in my home, the two outside lines come off the main supply line in the basement before the PRV so only the house water is pressure regulated. A PRV should not be too hard to find, it's in the water supply line before the house water goes to any fixtures. If you do have a PRV, it has failed and you need to not only replace it, but you should also add a thermal expansion tank.