TonyBagadonutz
Electrician
I may have hit a brick wall....a closet bend (street x hub ) with an offset flange (hub) is about 9" in height (+/- 1/4"). My floor joists are 7".
Where to lose a few 1/4'' 's?
Where to lose a few 1/4'' 's?
Closet Flange
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TonyBagadonutz
Electrician
I think I'd rather trim a 1/2" off each fitting, than just use a fitting not suited for the job. Both may be a violation...but trimming may be the lessor of two evils.
I find the shortest way to do this is with a 4x3 street closet 90 el.
The 4" closet flange can be slid down very far, and even notched around the pipe. What you don't use can be cut off.
TonyBagadonutz
Electrician
Terry,
I had to change to 3"...the counterman told me they don't make a 4" offset. Considering my tight clearances, I decided (while at the counter) to drop that arm to 3" right at the 4" stack.
Are we on the same page with giving the bend and/or the flange a haircut?
Am I correct to "assume" a 3" flange will have less overall height than a 3" offset? This particular joist may be able to be sacrificed for the greater good - it lays right on top the clothes closets and a good sisized portion of the joist could be removed and relocated a few inches back -then blocked across back to the next parellel joists - like a big U, with the base of the U being ontop of the closet framing and also portions of the uprights.
I had to change to 3"...the counterman told me they don't make a 4" offset. Considering my tight clearances, I decided (while at the counter) to drop that arm to 3" right at the 4" stack.
Are we on the same page with giving the bend and/or the flange a haircut?
Am I correct to "assume" a 3" flange will have less overall height than a 3" offset? This particular joist may be able to be sacrificed for the greater good - it lays right on top the clothes closets and a good sisized portion of the joist could be removed and relocated a few inches back -then blocked across back to the next parellel joists - like a big U, with the base of the U being ontop of the closet framing and also portions of the uprights.
hj
Master Plumber
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offset
He was partially correct about not making a 4" offset flange. However, the 3" one glues to the inside of a 4" closet bend. But the extra height of an offset, (I hope you were not considering one with an oval opening which would have been a very bad choice), may make your 7" joists too shallow for any offset.
He was partially correct about not making a 4" offset flange. However, the 3" one glues to the inside of a 4" closet bend. But the extra height of an offset, (I hope you were not considering one with an oval opening which would have been a very bad choice), may make your 7" joists too shallow for any offset.
TonyBagadonutz
Electrician
I think I'm "going steady" with the counterman 
I bought:
- 3" vent ell (a plumber there said it was "ok" to use)
- 3" closet flange (standard)
I have:
- 3" street ell
- 3" closet bend (street 90)
- 3" street 1/8 (x2)
- 3" 1/16 bend
- 3" length of PVC
- some motivation and sanity left
- 3" offset flange
- 4x4x3x3 double wye
- 4" wye
- an assortment of 4" fittings.
With any luck (and maybe a few beers), I will have this thing done by the end of the week.
I will post some pictures for your amusement before I glue it up.
Thnaks people - you really are the best!
I bought:
- 3" vent ell (a plumber there said it was "ok" to use)
- 3" closet flange (standard)
I have:
- 3" street ell
- 3" closet bend (street 90)
- 3" street 1/8 (x2)
- 3" 1/16 bend
- 3" length of PVC
- some motivation and sanity left
- 3" offset flange
- 4x4x3x3 double wye
- 4" wye
- an assortment of 4" fittings.
With any luck (and maybe a few beers), I will have this thing done by the end of the week.
I will post some pictures for your amusement before I glue it up.
Thnaks people - you really are the best!
TonyBagadonutz
Electrician
How'm I doin?
Here's the first attempt at an actual real stack...I figured I get the thumbs up/down before I make any more little nipples I can't use.
A photo for your comments:
After I have the approval, I add the neccessary pieces for the shower and sink drians, and then finally the venting lines.....I might actually use some glue this month if all goes well.
Thanks again!
Here's the first attempt at an actual real stack...I figured I get the thumbs up/down before I make any more little nipples I can't use.
A photo for your comments:
After I have the approval, I add the neccessary pieces for the shower and sink drians, and then finally the venting lines.....I might actually use some glue this month if all goes well.
Thanks again!
hj
Master Plumber
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- Cave Creek, Arizona
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- www.terrylove.com
vent
The double Y would not "fly" here because it creates a 3/4 "S" trap for the tub. In the small middle picture what is the sanitary tee being used for? It cannot be installed in that direction, unless it was a vent with a lenient inspector.
The double Y would not "fly" here because it creates a 3/4 "S" trap for the tub. In the small middle picture what is the sanitary tee being used for? It cannot be installed in that direction, unless it was a vent with a lenient inspector.
TonyBagadonutz
Electrician
hj said:
I can ditch the wye there(middle picture),
and just use the 90(bottom picture)-
I was hoping to eliminate the 4x4x2 tee(top right picture)....
hj said:
...which is the alternate plan for the sink waste line.
I guess that 4x4x2 tee should be a wye (it is a waste line).
I'll work on it again tom'row, adding some more piping to give a better overall view.
Thanks.
TonyBagadonutz
Electrician
Sink shower waste lines w/ a wye?
Is this any better for the sink and shower waste lines?
- The pedistal sink drain will enter wall - NOT floor (No "S" traps, right?) - I'll put a 2x2x2 tee there to continue up for venting.
- As the 2" exits the wall for the sink trap...is there a "special" part to reduce it to the standard sink trap size?
- The shower drain will vent up just past the trap(heading towards the 2x2x2 tee I have in there) - the pipe layout is not to scale, the shower vent and trap will be appx. 32" from the tee.
Is this any better for the sink and shower waste lines?
- The pedistal sink drain will enter wall - NOT floor (No "S" traps, right?) - I'll put a 2x2x2 tee there to continue up for venting.
- As the 2" exits the wall for the sink trap...is there a "special" part to reduce it to the standard sink trap size?
- The shower drain will vent up just past the trap(heading towards the 2x2x2 tee I have in there) - the pipe layout is not to scale, the shower vent and trap will be appx. 32" from the tee.
TonyBagadonutz
Electrician
the above plan is NFG...I can't turn the 90 up the wall for the sink drain - there is a joist hiding under there. I'd rather not notch a beam I can't access from both sides.
new pic in 2.5 hours
new pic in 2.5 hours
Breplum
Licensed plumbing contractor
Your sweep elbows need to be long sweeps, the double 3" wye is not code. Dude, you need either a plumbing consultant or buy a book. There are so many issues here and so many ways to do it wrong and you don't really know the code to begin with. I really appreciate how much time you have here already, but, it starts wrong with the double wye and short sweeps and tee on its back.
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