Adhesive

Statjunk

Statjunk

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Hey guys,

Anybody know of an adhesive to bond wood to concrete where the concrete is heated. The concrete can change temperature between summer and winter very drastically.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Tom
 
I'm laying down a locking engineered floor over a radiant heat slab. There is a spot next to a natural stone fireplace where the fireplace is very jagged. So I can't lock the floor down.

It seems as though the only way I'm going to get a good enough fit is to cut the tongue and groove off the boards and glue the board not only to the adjacent engineered floor but also to the concrete floor.

Does this help?

I'm going to check those links.

Tom
 
Jimbo,

The Quickcrete Poly adhesive looks like the stuff. I know you don't make the stuff but do you have any thoughts on whether or not will continue to bond if the temperature changes often even though it's within the temperature range?

Thanks

Tom
 
I would be more concerned with the contraction and expansion of the floor.

If you lock it down and the fireplace heats up the floor, the floor will expand and potentially buckle.

Any other possible solution?
 
I'm not seeing it because it's a natural fire place. Meaning it is made of stone and the stone stick out. So unless I'd be willing to chip a large porition of the stone about 3-4" off the floor so I can make the pivot I just don't see another solution.

The spot where I have to do this is on the side of the fireplace. So not directly in front of it. I'm hoping that heat from the fireplace will not be the issue. The issue I'm worried about is the radiant heat in the slab causing the expansion and contraction.

This is engineered flooring which supposedly doesn't expand and contract as much as natural hardwood.

This is a tough spot.

Tom
 
Is the flooring designed as glue-down or floating? If floating, you don't want to anchor it. They make starter trim strips that are undercut to allow the boards to expand and contract underneath the top, sort of like an L. This, unfortuneately, would only probably look okay if that line was straight.
 
Jad,

I may cut back the flooring and use the "L" Shaped trim piece. However then I'm going to have to fill in behind the "L" shaped trim with mortor to fill inthe gap between the trim and the rock wall.

The folks that built this rock wall weren't really thinking ahead at all. The rock wall goes up to the ceiling. It took me 25 hours just to contour the drywall to hit the rock wall.

Tom
 
Unless you are dealing with a huge room "fixing" one edge, or part of one exge should be fine. The expansion can happen along the other sides. As far as adhesive, i'd use silicone. It will flex a lot and adheres to everything but water...
 
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