Overflowing Washer Drain - Help!

Intrepid · Feb 16, 2008

My washer drain (post pipe) overflows when the washer is on the drain cycle, even on small loads.

Last weekend I tore down the washer to repair a different leak and now the drain pipe backs up. I snaked out the washer line, kitchen line and confirmed all were running well out the main sewer line.

I will appreciate ideas on how to fix this.

Cass · Feb 16, 2008

I see a PVC stand pipe but what kind and size of pipe is the drain line?

What size cutter head did you use?

Is the washer line vented?

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

Intrepid · Feb 16, 2008

This is an existing hookup. The pvc drain is a 2" pipe.

Thinking about the air factor, I held the drain hose about 2 inches out of the pvc pipe with water draining. It still backed up with plenty of air.

Gear Junkie · Feb 16, 2008

You have a partial clog in your main line. The water from your washing machine is under pressure so any obstruction will cause it to back up.

Cass · Feb 16, 2008

When was the house built?

Intrepid · Feb 16, 2008

It can't be a partial clog because I don't want to snake all the water lines again this weekend.

Seriously, if the main line flow matched the washer line and kitchen sink flow, where might the clog be located? I removed all the washer hoses last weekend, so there are no socks or lint balls in the hoses...

Intrepid · Feb 16, 2008

The house was built around 1952

Cass · Feb 16, 2008

I am guessing you have the PVC connected to galvanized pipe. Is this a crawl space or basement.

If the PVC is connected to galvanized pipe then I am going to guess you need a snake with a 1.5" cutter head to clean the pipe out right not just a 1/4" or 3/8" snake.

The other thing I would do is install a proper trap and AAV for the vent.

If it hasn't been already you can replace the line all the way to the stack with PVC, if it has been already replaced check the pitch on the line and be sure it is hung right with no belly's.

Intrepid · Feb 16, 2008

The PVC does connect to galvanized pipe. I show the washer drain, the line and then the main waste drain.

Cass · Feb 16, 2008

Get some perforated straping and a level and check the pitch of the line.

If it has been bellyed, like it looks, for a long time, it may be lined with guck and may be easier to just replace it with new PVC and rehang it right.

The more galvanized / cast iron you can replace the better off you will be.

You do need a trap and AAV above the floor.

I am not sure which Pic is the washer line. You show 2 different lines connecting to cast.

Intrepid · Feb 16, 2008

In the second (middle) photo, the washer line is the one that connects to galvanized pipe (the one on bottom.

Is there a tutorial on replacing galvanized with pvc somewhere? Including all the tools and tips needed??

Wondering · Feb 16, 2008

I know right now your main concern is getting your drain going again. As soon as you get a chance you really need to replace your dryer vent. I notice you have the white flex type and it has some dips/bends in it. This causes it to catch and hold lint and eventually could cause a fire. You need to change it out with the flex or rigid metal type. There are so many dryer fires every year that could be prevented by cleaning out or changing the dryer vent. Just thought I would recommend this when you get a chance to be on the safe side-also lets the dryer dry faster.

Cass · Feb 17, 2008

If it has been bellyed for a long time then you may not be able to level and rehang it. It may be in a permanent bow. In that case don't mess with it just replace it.

Intrepid · Feb 17, 2008

Any thoughts on the steps to replace the galvanized pipe?
Thanks!

Herk · Feb 17, 2008

Intrepid said:
Is there a tutorial on replacing galvanized with pvc somewhere? Including all the tools and tips needed??

Yes, there is. It's called a "plumbing apprenticeship."

Mikey · Feb 18, 2008

The short course:

1) Buy a couple of 16" or 18" pipe wrenches:

2) Buy a can of PB Blaster:

3) Take some common sense pills (no image)

4) Remove galvanized stuff. If you can't find a union:

somewhere, you may have to cut the pipe to allow you to unscrew it from one end or the other.

5) Replace with PVC.

Herk · Feb 18, 2008

Maybe it's my old eyes, but that looks to be 2" cast iron pipe, not galvanized. I don't think there's likely to be a union in it.

Mikey · Feb 18, 2008

They may be old, but I think you're right. If I use my imagination and hold my tongue just right, I think I see CI hub ends.

Intrepid · Feb 19, 2008

I think the pipes are galvanized. I dropped the 'galvanized' pipe at the pvc connection and snaked it about 25'. NO LUCK! Washer still backs up. My main drain is clean as a whistle now though. About that apprenticeship program - my plumber calls me 'Josephine' and hardly ever charges me extra when I "help" him

Last picture. I think I put the drain hose on wrong. Although it's not technically kinked, it looks off. Any votes as to whether or not I should straighten it up?
Thanks!

Cass · Feb 19, 2008

Since the drain line is 2" have you used a 2" cutter head to snake the line?

If the line is vented and pitched right with no bellys and snaked clear then the problem is a partial stoppage somewhere past the furthest point that the PVC goes. It may be right at the transition point.

Overflowing Washer Drain - Help!

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