Chris Thorne
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One of those things that you would think would be simple enough:
Am disassembling an external relief line off of a water heater, which is all sweated copper except for the one fitting that's threaded into the T&P relief valve. That fitting can't be backed out because the geometry of the rest of the piping prevents it from being turned.
Normally I would have just cut the pipe, no worries. But I had some time on my hands, and the curiosity bug bit. I've desoldered electrical connections before, but never a sweated plumbing connection.
I assumed that if I just put some moderate separating tension on the pipe, and hit one of the sweated joints with adequate heat for a short time, that it would reflow the solder and the joint would simply pull apart.
Tried it with the old propane torch. No dice. Zero sign of softening or liquefaction of the external solder, even. Hmmmm. It's relatively recent work, thus silver solder, let's try the MAPP torch instead. Tried that. No joy.
Am I missing something obvious here? Any tips or tricks would be much appreciated. Again, this is not a situation where it must be done this way: I can resort to the blade easily. Am just curious as to why this method does not seem to be working as I would have expected it to.
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Am disassembling an external relief line off of a water heater, which is all sweated copper except for the one fitting that's threaded into the T&P relief valve. That fitting can't be backed out because the geometry of the rest of the piping prevents it from being turned.
Normally I would have just cut the pipe, no worries. But I had some time on my hands, and the curiosity bug bit. I've desoldered electrical connections before, but never a sweated plumbing connection.
I assumed that if I just put some moderate separating tension on the pipe, and hit one of the sweated joints with adequate heat for a short time, that it would reflow the solder and the joint would simply pull apart.
Tried it with the old propane torch. No dice. Zero sign of softening or liquefaction of the external solder, even. Hmmmm. It's relatively recent work, thus silver solder, let's try the MAPP torch instead. Tried that. No joy.
Am I missing something obvious here? Any tips or tricks would be much appreciated. Again, this is not a situation where it must be done this way: I can resort to the blade easily. Am just curious as to why this method does not seem to be working as I would have expected it to.
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