View Full Version : Drain issue for shower remodel

02-03-2008, 09:35 AM
I am in the process of replacing a plastic shower stall with a fully tiled shower stall. Shower is in basement and is on concrete slab. After removal of old base, I realize I have a 2" steel pipe that is currently at slab height. I also note a crack in the concrete (not near drain) across the area under the shower. I was planning to use Schluter-Kerdi on tapered mortar bed-I think I have two problems. I need to transition the steel pipe to ABS or plastic well below grade and I probably should use a liner due to the crack. Any guidance will be appreciated and may help keep me in good graces with the Mrs. Is the DIX system a good liner solution or do you have any other suggestions.

02-03-2008, 02:58 PM
It would probably be prudent to expose the trap and riser of the drain there now so you can evaluate and change over to either ABS or PVC to accommodate the Kerdi drain. Last thing you want to do is install a new shower and find out that the steel trap is shot. I've used Kerdi a few times and think it is a really good way to go for a trouble-free shower. If you haven't viewed the videos on their website, check out www.schluter.com (http://www.schluter.com).

The crack in the floor may or may not be a problem depending on several things: how wide is it, and are the edges at the same height? Vertical movement is death to tile. Horizontal movement can be addressed with spot isolation membranes. Depending on the attributes of the crack, Ditra from Schluter may solve that as well, then you could make the entire floor waterproof as well if you used the Kerdi-band on the seams. Not a big deal on a slab, though. Check out www.johnbridge.com (http://www.johnbridge.com) for some tiling assistance.

02-03-2008, 07:44 PM
Prior to removing the old shower, the drain has functioned just fine as we have been using this shower daily right up to removing the old surround. Is it still necessary to dig down to trap? I do not know how the transition to ABS/PVC from steel is done, is it easier to do it at the trap versus in-line?

02-04-2008, 03:59 PM
It depends on how deep the current trap is...you need some room for the nohub connector and then some abs to then glue into the new drain. My guess is that you may not have enough, plus, since the drain is fairly deep, you may need to dig a ways down anyways to cut off the pipe. There are inside cutters for plastic pipe, but I don't know of any for metal. Plus, the adapter to mate up with the existing pipe needs to fit around the pipe, and you need access to get either a wrench or screwdriver in there to tighten the connection, so you're sort of stuck breaking up the floor a bit anyways. Once you have that done, you may as well replace the trap.