View Full Version : Remodeling Help
03-30-2005, 02:07 PM
Looking for some guidance. Some friends and myself have purchased a home that we have gutted and remodeled. The original house had only one bath on the first floor. We have added two baths on the second floor. Hoping to get some suggestions on improvements or if there are any glaring problems with our plans.
Under the slab we are transitioning from Cast Iron to 4" PVC.
This runs about 24" horiz. to a 90 ell to turn vertical.
On the vertical we branch off with 4x2 reducing San. Tees for a tub, washer and lavatory on the first floor. There is also a Y here for a cleanout.
At the top of the 1st floor we Y out to 3" and run Horiz. to a Y for each of 2 back outlet toilets on the 2nd floor. The 2nd toilet is connected is on a San. Tee so that the vent can go out the top of this. After the toilets reduced to 2" via a 3x2 bushing and run over and up to a double Y with 45s for back to back lavatories in the upstairs bathrooms. 2" vent continues vertical above the sinks and will either ell back to the main 3"vent above the toilets or go straight to the roof.
Back off the main stack we change to 2" via a 4x2 bushing and go to back to back tubs. The 2" continues up and turns and connects to the 3" vent above the toilets.
Are we missing cleanouts or vents anywhere? The house is in NJ. We are under the IPC code I think (have the book but not in hand at this time).
Thanks for advice.
I'll try to upload drawing later. The file size appears to be too large.
03-30-2005, 02:15 PM
Was able to convert to a Jpg so the file would be an ok size. Hopefully comes out clear for all. :)
03-30-2005, 05:38 PM
I wish I knew more about the International Plumbing Code (IPC)
I've been using the (UPC) Uniform Plumbing Code for thirty-plus years.
There's no way that your drawing would fly using the UPC.
03-30-2005, 09:04 PM
The code is actually National Standard Plumbing Code (NSPC). Not sure how much this changes things. What input do you have based on UPC? Talked to a local plumber and he mentioned that we can't stack vent all the fixtures on the first floor that we have to "back" vent them?
03-30-2005, 09:34 PM
First of all whatever program you used for the JPG, I want! too cool....
Not so sure about NSPC. What I'm seeing is:
a) need to vent the washer box standpipe
b) need to vent the tub on the first floor
c) need a vent on the toilet upstairs. you could common vent the toilets if
you use a double wye. Here you cant use a cross for blow out fixtures
so the double wye is the fitting you'd need to use.
d) I believe those are bathtubs to the left on the second floor. While you
might say they are common vented, I'd be concerned about the
developed length of the furthest one from the vent.
There's a voice inside my head (which isnt that uncommon...I do what they tell me too bruhahaha) thats telling me I'm missing something, but its been a long day and I'm just not seeing it. I'm sure others will be posting anything I've missed or am in error on.
03-31-2005, 01:56 PM
So from the previous post:
a) What size does this vent need to be if the trap and standpipe are to be 2"?
b) Same as A but the trap is under grade level (not sure if this makes a difference)
Conversations with another plumber stated that since below grade this could be 1 1/2" downstream of the tub p-trap. This could go over and up and tie in to a 1 1/2" from the washer standpipe vent and then go up and out through the attic or tie in to the other vent up there.
c) Not sure what you mean. I have a vent via vertical San tee on the 2nd toilet up the line (the one on right on 2nd floor). Do I need to have the same from the 1st (on left) and have it tie in to the other?
d) What is max length for 2"? Thought it was something like 5'?
03-31-2005, 01:59 PM
forgot to answer what the software is...
Charlotte Pipe has 3D versions of all of their fittings that you can export to different CAD programs (i.e. AutoCAD). I just used this and exported to jpg.
This will take you to a page at charlotte pipe from here there are links at bottom of page that will take you cadregister.com where the fittings actually are.
03-31-2005, 07:58 PM
I'm going off IPC and not NSPC so things may vary.
a) vent for standpipe would be 1-1/2"
b) should be ok then as long as the fixtures are on the same floor level
c) yes, the other toilet needs to be vented also. Or a double drainage fitting such as a double wye needs to be used for both toilets with the vent coming out of the top of the fitting (common vent).
d) max distance of fixture trap from vent is:
1-1/2" trap/2" fixture arm-8' at 1/4" foot per inch slope
2" trap/2" fixture arm-6' at 1/4" foot per inch slope
from IPC table 907.1
Thanks for the info on the software
IN addition to the other "defects" if your drawing is accurate, the the shower or tub "P" trap at the upper left corner is being installed as an "S" trap, which is not allowed.
04-01-2005, 06:21 AM
How would I get rid of the S? I have to use an above floor drain hence the reason for what I have. I see that the vent has to be 2 pipe diameters from the trap to not be crown venting but I dont' see the minimum length of the trap arm to not be considered and S trap.
04-01-2005, 09:24 AM
1st drawing is a blown up view of the 1st floor (reverse angle then before so that trap can be seen)
2nd drawing is the same angle as the first picture that I posted. Shows a vent from the toilet and hopefully a removal of the "S" trap on the 2nd floor tub.
3rd drawing shows everthing but from a different angle again to better show the fixtures connecting to the far side of the main stack.
The vent beneath the washer trap has to rise 42" above the floor before it can turn hoizontal. Isn't plumbing easy and fun?
04-01-2005, 10:11 PM
How about a 45 up to the vertical? The Diverter and spout are going to be in the way if I go vertical for that far. Moved some stuff around on new pics.
It can be almost anything but horizontal.
04-04-2005, 11:11 PM
What we've got in so far:
Tub traps and washer traps are a little convoluted but I think it is OK.