how close am I to zero hour on this?

bestof1928

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house was built in 1928....probably original plumbing....

this was noted in the home inspection, about a year ago...

but I don't want to neglect it to the point of failure.....

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this is the main drain I am guessing from the toilet, not sure if the other drains are spliced in or not.

this is the main upstairs bathroom drain, pics are taken from the basement.

should I worry about the pipe all the way up?
 
Yeah, I'd say you've only got a few decades left. Only puzzling thing is that all the rust spots shown seem to originate at point sources. You might try hacking at one of those points with an icepick or something to see how deep the rot is, and keep a roll of duct tape handy for emergency repairs.
 
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You can replace the stack at any time now or you can fill the holes with silicone and duct tape till it falls down.

Your choice.
 
Yeah, I'd say you've only got a few decades left. Only puzzling thing is that all the rust spots shown seem to originate at point sources. You might try hacking at one of those points with an icepick or something to see how deep the rot is, and keep a roll of duct tape handy for emergency repairs.

I wouldn't touch a thing! Its held together with rust! That rust line that extends down the side if at least one of the pipes is going to reveal a split length. The day it starts leaking is the day it needs replacement or, it can be a planned replacement.

It's broken it just doesn't know it yet!
 
I wouldn't touch a thing! Its held together with rust! That rust line that extends down the side if at least one of the pipes is going to reveal a split length. The day it starts leaking is the day it needs replacement or, it can be a planned replacement.

It's broken it just doesn't know it yet!

I know it's broken though......and my 1 year old front loading dryer is right in front of it.

would I have to open up the wall to see if the pipe is like that all the way to the 2nd floor bathroom?

There is really no point in doing spot replacement if the whole thing is a POS and needs to be replaced.
 
but thanks everyone for your help.....

if I can really use silcone and duct tape for spot repairs, that's at least a middle of the night type fix I can do and still allow the bathroom to be functional.
 
I
There is really no point in doing spot replacement if the whole thing is a POS and needs to be replaced.

In a constant pool of individuals looking for the cheap quick fix, your an exeption.
You're right, if it's rusted through in one place, it's rusted in others.
 
I would be planning to replace as much of the cast iron pipe as possible as a planned repair/renovation when the disruption will be acceptable.

Since it has worked for 80 years it should continue to work if the existing parts are replaced with PVC. You probably don't want to get into upgrades to current codes if that requires new venting arrangements. You might upgrade sizes, such as going to 2" for showers and washing machines, but you don't want to start making new pathways through walls and roof.

It will probably be necessary to remove some wall finishes to remove and replace the pipe.
 
Face it, it's already failed. That is not sanitary. We're only talking about the difference between "failed" and "disaster." People don't want to fix anything until the disaster has already happened.

Were it my own house, it would not have gone that long. The useful life of cast iron and steel pipe is about 60 years. This varies by foundry and age.
 
Face it, it's already failed. That is not sanitary. We're only talking about the difference between "failed" and "disaster." People don't want to fix anything until the disaster has already happened.

Were it my own house, it would not have gone that long. The useful life of cast iron and steel pipe is about 60 years. This varies by foundry and age.

failure to me would be slight leaking......

not disaster

I haven't looked at these pipes in a while, so when I saw them I decided to illicit some advice.

I guess what I should have asked was can I make it until spring?
 
I would be planning to replace as much of the cast iron pipe as possible as a planned repair/renovation when the disruption will be acceptable.

Since it has worked for 80 years it should continue to work if the existing parts are replaced with PVC. You probably don't want to get into upgrades to current codes if that requires new venting arrangements. You might upgrade sizes, such as going to 2" for showers and washing machines, but you don't want to start making new pathways through walls and roof.

It will probably be necessary to remove some wall finishes to remove and replace the pipe.

the drain from the shower looks fine, it's the smaller pipe in front of the larger one in the pics.

this is the only pipe that is messed up, the kitchen has PVC that is spliced into another cast iron pipe, and the washing machine is in the basement and I just spliced it into the basement sink drain.

the pipe behind the walls is what I'm worried about, since I can't see it, and my walls are also original 1928, probably with an undercoat of lead paint, and I have two kids under 3.....
 
If the pipe looks like that I would rip it all out. Just think the only place that drain have water is the inside, so the pipe is rotting from inside out. The thing has met its life and needs to retire.
 
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