Help!

[jrmbadger1]

Hi all,
I'm so frustrated... DYI here - installing a whole house water filter as we are on well water and get lots of sediment. I managed to install a water softener myself, so I thought that I could do this!

SO I go through and install a very complicated setup (for me anyway!)

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii190/jrmbadger1/plumbing005.jpg

The picture above shows the setup on the right of the filter (the filtered water output). I have put a shutoff valve on each side (as recommended - and for convenience as I don't want to have to use a bucket just to catch all the water when the filter is changed.) the filter has 1" output and input ports and I have 3/4" plumbing, so the first fitting is a male adapter that is also a reducer. That is soldered to a shorter section of pipe which is then soldered to the shutoff valve, and then (because the filter is further out from the wall than the pipe) I use a series of elbows to connect to the rest of the pipe. (the coupling on the right is from a previous mistake!)

When I pressurize the system, I get a small leak at the solder joint between the male fitting and the little section of pipe (labelled 'A') on the photo. Obviously my solder joint sucked. I know that most of you pro's would probably shriek in horror at my solder joints, but I'm not going for style, just so that it holds water! That and I'm new so I'm learning.

I really don't want to have to make a whole new pipe section (as is represented in the photo) as the shutoff valve is very expensive. So I have two questions:

1.) can I undo a solder joint - so say I want to undue joint A - how do I do this?
2.) If I want to then redo the joint, what steps do I need to clean the joint - and when I clean the joint, should it look like brand new copper?

Finally,
When I sweat joints, I apply lots of flux, both to the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Then I heat both the pipe next to the joint and the joint itself - kindof in a back and forth motion. Usually the solder doesn't melt until I start getting steam out of both ends of the pipe. I usually try and run the solder around the whole outside (so I end up with a mess on the pipe, but I figured it would make sure that I had enough). Then, I normally let it air cool, but I do take a moist rag and wipe off any excess flux or brown gunk that ends up on the pipe.

Anything obvious that I'm doing wrong?

Thank you very much for any assistance - I'm getting kinda frustrated as I've spent two days on this!

-Justin

[Cass]

You have to clean the pipe with sand cloth and inside the fittings with a wire brush or sand cloth, then get Oatey #95 flux and you shouldn't have a problem.

[jrmbadger1]

Ok, so I just use the propane torch to heat up the joint until I can slip off the fitting?

[Cass]

Yup you can try that...most times they come off easy sometimes not.

[jimbo]

You can remove that fitting, but a third hand would help! First, to protect the valve, wrap a slightly damp rag aorund the midsection.

Heat the fitting and when ready, tap it to knock it off. Wipe the pipe with a DRY rag to remove as much solder as possible. It will still be silver colored, but it is not necessary to go to bare copper. Use a new male adapter, and if necessary use emery cloth on the pipe until it will go into the fitting. Clean and flux. Apply the heat mostly to the fitting. The pipe will get hot enough.

[Cass]

You mentioned steam...there should be NO water at all in the pipe while soldering.

[jrmbadger1]

Also, I'm using Oatey #5 lead free solder paste "Cleans and Fluxes" - is that bad to use? What is the difference if any?

[Cass]

The #5 should work I just find #95 better.

[jrmbadger1]

You mentioned steam...there should be NO water at all in the pipe while soldering.

Right, I find that even a small amount of water keeps the pipe from getting hot enough.

A lot of times I assemble sub-assemblies away from the main water line - it's easier and I don't have to squat to reach it. Steam comes out of both ends of the fitting when it is hot enough - I would assume that it would be the flux as the pipes are completely dry.

[jrmbadger1]

The #5 should work I just find #95 better.

I will give the #95 a shot -

[jrmbadger1]

You can remove that fitting, but a third hand would help! First, to protect the valve, wrap a slightly damp rag aorund the midsection.

Heat the fitting and when ready, tap it to knock it off. Wipe the pipe with a DRY rag to remove as much solder as possible. It will still be silver colored, but it is not necessary to go to bare copper. Use a new male adapter, and if necessary use emery cloth on the pipe until it will go into the fitting. Clean and flux. Apply the heat mostly to the fitting. The pipe will get hot enough.

Sounds simple enough - so if the fitting still has a silver color it should be fine as long as it is smooth and fits into the fitting?

Thanks

[jrmbadger1]

Thanks all, I will give this a try tommorow when the big boxes are open(got a bucket under the leak for now!)

-J