Airmaker System?

I recently bought a home in S. WI that uses a well system. The house sat empty for a year and when we moved in I flushed the 38 gallon galvanized pressure tank (the type with the air check valve in the side) because we were getting a lot of rust at the tap. The tank flowed dark brown/orange rust for 2o minutes before eventually flowing clean.
I was thinking of replacing the tank and found that it seems that the bladder style tanks are what everyone is using now.

Thus my potential problem- I think we have an "airmaker" pump system. I can hear air bubbling into the tank each time the well pump is energized. I have not been able to find any information online about an airmaker pump system nor any easy and sure way to verify that this is what I am dealing with. Is is a different kind of pump? Does it use a standard pitless valve? I am wondering what my best options will be when I do have to replace the tank or eventually, the pump. Thanks in advance! Russ

Do you have a submersible pump in the well or a jet pump near the tank?

Air makeup systems used with jet pump systems are located with the pump and tank. If you install a bladder tank that air-makeup system should be removed.

Some submersibles have an air-makeup system in the well pipe that consists of a pair of ball-check valves with small orifices that allow drainage of a small amount of water to admit air during each pump cycle. The ones that I have seen depend on having a check valve at the top, near the tank, as well as a check valve at the submersible pump. In those systems the air-makeup is defeated if the check valve at the top is removed.

EDIT: The following link has a document that describes the air systems. In the diagram for submersible systems the upper check valve is shown in the well. http://www.flotecpump.com/pdf/FP490.PDF

cacher_chick said:

I was thinking of replacing the tank and found that it seems that the bladder style tanks are what everyone is using now.

Click to expand...

Bladder tanks are what are being pushed today, they last 7 years, ask around and see how long galvanized tanks last, I just sold my dad's home the tank was used when it was installed, that was 1955. Bladder tanks are smaller for the amount of water they supply.

Rancher

Bob NH said:

Do you have a submersible pump in the well or a jet pump near the tank?
Air makeup systems used with jet pump systems are located with the pump and tank. If you install a bladder tank that air-makeup system should be removed.
Some submersibles have an air-makeup system in the well pipe that consists of a pair of ball-check valves with small orifices that allow drainage of a small amount of water to admit air during each pump cycle. The ones that I have seen depend on having a check valve at the top, near the tank, as well as a check valve at the submersible pump. In those systems the air-makeup is defeated if the check valve at the top is removed.

EDIT: The following link has a document that describes the air systems. In the diagram for submersible systems the upper check valve is shown in the well. http://www.flotecpump.com/pdf/FP490.PDF

Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick response. My pump is in the well casing. I think it unfortunate that I would need to pull the pump up to replace the check valves with plugs if I choose to install a new pre-charged tank. Sounds like a job better left for after the pump fails.
I think the galvanized tank that is in place is the original from 1962. Given the life of the bladder-style tanks, replacing with a new galvanized tank is looking like a fine idea. Assuming one keeps the float valve (air charge) working properly, is there a downside to this?

Sidebar question- how long has the pitless adapter been a standard installation? Given a steel well casing that rises above ground level, would I be safe to assume that my well has one?

Airmaker System!

I wouldn't be to concerned with the system you currently have as long as it is working OK!

The airmaker system was great in it's day. However the air mixing with the Iron in the water does cause the Iron to precipitate out causing rusty water. If this becomes a serious concern you will have to contract a QUALIFIED well driller or pump installer pull the pump drop pipe up to the Snifter Valve (air injector), remove it from the Tee and replace the Snifter Valve with a plug.

NOTE: Some drillers just drilled a small 1/16" or 1/8" hole in the drop pipe. If this is the case this joint of drop pipe will have to be replaced or plugged.

Once this is done you'll need to replace the galvanized or if painted on the outside (a glass lined tank) with a modern WELL-X-TROL® or equivalent tank.
The Iron will still be in your water (most well water has some Iron in it) but since there is no air trapped in the water, the Iron is less likely to precipitate out into rust.

NOTE: I recommend contracting a QUALIFIED, (NGWA CERTIFIED), Certified Well Driller/Pump Installer (CWD/PI) installer to do this work. Check your Yellow Pages or go to http://www.wellowner.org/ to locate a QUALIFIED contractor.

ALSO: If you prefer constant pressure (like city water pressure) I recommend that you look up www.cyclestopvalves.com and call their 800 number for more about constant pressure valves or to answer questions about your system at no charge.

Air Maker system

How shallow is your offset piping to the tank? In my area you use this system where you have a possibility of the offset piping freezing. The water drains through the offset pipes to prevent freezing and the well tank is set up to relieve excess air when the pump turns on and builds up to pressure.

hmmm

This is an interesting thought as I believe it is about 5 feet below grade. I'm not sure what code is for frost line here, but it must be close.