Scrollsaw toast? Plugged into 220V!?

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Black_Blade

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I have a scrollsaw that has been plugged into 220v, not sure of the damage done to unit...is it worthwhile to have it repaired?

It is a variable speed Craftsman with the red LED speed indicator.

I picked it up from a guy for $20, he had told me about the 220volt thing, but for $20 I figured it may not be too bad to fix up. I have not really had a use for the saw, but if its not too bad of a repair then I will get her going again.
 
I'd like to know how someone managed to "plug in to 220" a saw with a 120 volt plug, but anyway it sounds like some genius found a way. I would start assuming the motor is fried, and needs to be replaced. Maybe $100. You might get lucky, if a circuit breaker popped fast enough maybe it wasn't even damaged!
 
Check the brushes..sometimes that is all that is damaged.
 
Take it apart and smell everything -- the variable-speed (trigger?) switch, the motor, etc. A fried electrical part has a very distinct odor about it. I'd bet on the switch.
 
I'd check it out as recommended, but don't expect much. A Crapsman scroll saw is not a very expensive tool, so I would spend anything on repairs. I had a cord replaced on a VSR 3/8" drill and while it was in the shop, I found exactly the same model for less than the cost of the new cord on the old one. I now own two, LOL. BTW, these were DeWalt drills.
 
tool

With an electronic speed control, I doubt that the tool is worth repairing. I had a friend who remodeled his own kitchen. He wired the wall oven and when he turned on the power the panel lit up very brightly, and then went dark, permanently. He had send 230 volts through the 115 volt control circuit. It was an expensive repair that the manufacturer would not warranty.
 
hj said:
With an electronic speed control, I doubt that the tool is worth repairing. I had a friend who remodeled his own kitchen. He wired the wall oven and when he turned on the power the panel lit up very brightly, and then went dark, permanently. He had send 230 volts through the 115 volt control circuit. It was an expensive repair that the manufacturer would not warranty.
Click to expand...


I'm not sure I want to know how that happened..., that wiring is all internal. All the wall ovens I've wired come with a factory whip that are 120/240 volts...
 
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hj said:
With an electronic speed control, I doubt that the tool is worth repairing.
Click to expand...

Don't toss it without knowing for sure what the repair will cost. I think I replaced the control switch on a Craftsman scroll saw for under $15, but that was a few years ago.
 
I'd like to know how someone managed to "plug in to 220" a saw with a 120 volt plug, but anyway it sounds like some genius found a way.
Click to expand...

I plugged my sawzall into a 120v air handler outlet, wired with 240v. It ran really really fast for a few seconds. I was wise enough to stop using it and check voltage so there was no harm.
 
Repair shops that I am familiar have a minimum charge just to look at a tool. Thats why it is often cost prohibitive to repair a small power tool, but certainly check it out.
 
oven

This one had a junction block, but even with a whip/pigtail if you connect the wires wrong it will happen. Years ago I was working on a project and someone asked if there was a 120 v. outlet nearby. The mechanical guys told him, "Right over there" and pointed to an outlet. I told them that it was a 240 v. outlet which was why it was painted red. To prove it, I called the electrician over and he told them the same thing. The mechanical guys said they had been using it to power their pipe threader and wondered why it only took a little while to do each thread.
 
hj said:
This one had a junction block, but even with a whip/pigtail if you connect the wires wrong it will happen.
Click to expand...

Guess if you really don't know what your doing you shouldn't be doing it...?

hj said:
Years ago I was working on a project and someone asked if there was a 120 v. outlet nearby. The mechanical guys told him, "Right over there" and pointed to an outlet. I told them that it was a 240 v. outlet which was why it was painted red. To prove it, I called the electrician over and he told them the same thing. The mechanical guys said they had been using it to power their pipe threader and wondered why it only took a little while to do each thread.
Click to expand...

Painting a 120v receptacle supplied by 240v red does not meet code... :rolleyes: There is a reason for NEMA receptacle configurations....
 
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