Toilet Flange?

ski

New Member
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
California
First off I do not pretend to be a plumber. I am currently building a house (slab on grade) the plumber I used installed the toilet flanges. The one downstairs on the concrete slabe which is the finished floor is about 1/2 inch above the floor and not anchored to the floor in anyway just glued to the riser. Any idea on best method to reset the flange properly? The plumber has decided he doesnt want to come out and fix any mistakes. Also upstairs flange is also high but flooring would probably make it the right hight but it is also already glued in. Would it be better to cut it off, lay the floor, then glue it back in and set it flush to the floor? I am assuming by what I have read that the flanges should be sitting flush on the finished floor that way when the toilet is set it rest on the floor not just the flange assuming things are leval. Thanks for any info and help.
 
The basement flange is the biggest problem. If the drain pipe is 4", you could use a long saw and cut the flange and pipe flush with the floor. Then after the finished floor is down, use a new flange the fits inside the 4" pipe. You can not do this if the pipe is 3" as that would constrict the drain size too much. If the pipe is 3", you will have to cut and peel the flange off of the pipe. This is tricky and I would leave it to a plumber with proper tools and experience. (Use a rag in the pipe while working on the flange to block the sewer gas. You idea about the other flange will probably work fine. Since the flooring under the flange is never seen, all that is necessary is that you have a solid and level surface so the flange will be supported and level. The wax ring will take care of a small variation in height. (Operative word is "small") In other words, if the flange ends up being solid and level but not perfectly even with the finished floor height, you'll be OK. Perhaps the first thing to do is to check your contract with the original plumber. He is the one who should make all of this right, but it might be more hassle than it's worth to force the issue with him.
 
If the basement drain pipe is 4" (and you have a few inches of vertical length before an elbow), you can use an inside pipe cutter. The cheap ones are only $10, and they attach to your corded or cordless drill.

I have a flush-cut adapter on my sawzall, which would also would work well in this instance.
 
Back
Top