View Full Version : So I have a leak...
The gas water tank is a RuudGlas Pacemaker, 089110?033 (the ? looks like it might be a 4). The tank is at least 6 years old.
The leak is in the hot water line coming out of the tank. This picture shows where the leak is (the taped one is leaking; the tape is a weak attempt to slow the leak), aside from the leak the taped one looks like the untaped one):
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/1829/dscn5358ov9.jpg
This is the connection into the tank... it doesn't look too good. Is this a rusted out tank? The rest of the tank looks ok, but this part doesn't
http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/8987/dscn5356gv8.jpg
Is it repairable, or should the tank be replaced?
Thanks for any advice. =)
patrick88
12-01-2007, 12:52 PM
I would not bother messing with that mess. I assume the tank is a 6yr warranty, so you should just change it out. Do not use those cheap flex supplies that were used last time.
kordts
12-01-2007, 01:09 PM
I would replace those galvanised nipples with brass nipples. Lose the flexis. The tank should be fine.
so does 0891 from the start of the serial number mean it was manufactured in Aug of '91? So the tank could be around 16 years old?
So if we went for a new tank, whirlpool would be one to avoid? Otherwise are they all pretty much the same?
Again, thanks for the advice.
patrick88
12-01-2007, 02:34 PM
so does 0891 from the start of the serial number mean it was manufactured in Aug of '91? So the tank could be around 16 years old?
So if we went for a new tank, whirlpool would be one to avoid? Otherwise are they all pretty much the same?
Again, thanks for the advice.
ya sounds like the tank is 16yrs old replace it. I would do a search of the forums for water heaters. You would find all you need to know. I would also check out the tankless thread.
construct30
12-01-2007, 02:55 PM
A hot water tank IMO is not a diy project unless you have a good back ground in plumbing.
Verdeboy
12-01-2007, 02:58 PM
Lose the flexis.
What's wrong with using copper flex lines? I thought they made installations easier and were a great advancement.
Verdeboy
12-01-2007, 03:00 PM
A hot water tank IMO is not a diy project unless you have a good back ground in plumbing.
I don't think this poster has any intentions of doing it themselves. Note the electrical tape leak-stop. ;)
construct30
12-01-2007, 03:24 PM
It's leaking, point made. Get rid of the flex lines. Most codes require the use of heat trap nipples or pipe loops on the tanks to save energy. The nipples have little rubber flappers in them to help keep the hot water in the tank, we have to use them or make a big nasty loop.
Some DIYers will try anything, just stating the obvious.
Mike Swearingen
12-01-2007, 03:28 PM
zing,
Hire a pro plumber to replace all of that mess to code.
Mike
construct30
12-01-2007, 03:35 PM
There is always debate as to if the heat trap nipples are dielectric or not. I have hooked up to them without trouble. Code does require either the flex lines or a union in most areas. You are not allowed to directly plumb into the tank. I use the unions rather than the flex pipes. I have heard talk that in some areas flex pipe will soon be required because of vibration. I wonder how long it will be before it is code, then what about the gas lines or rigid conduit for the power?
Terry
12-01-2007, 03:48 PM
In earthquake country, like the West coast, it's already expected that flex connectors for gas and water are used.
If the water heater has plastic lined galvanized pipe nipples, I use those, if not, I use brass.
With brass, when I go back fifteen years later I can reuse them.
cwhyu2
12-01-2007, 03:53 PM
FLEX IS TOO THIN HARD PIPE YOUR NEW w/h .GO WITH RHEEM OR OTHERS
STAY AWAY FROM WIRILPOOP.:D
construct30
12-01-2007, 03:55 PM
I wonder how the heat trap nipples hold up over time?
jimbo
12-01-2007, 04:31 PM
HARD PIPE YOUR NEW w/h ..:D
Against the LAW in California! Gas too must be a flexie.
cwhyu2
12-01-2007, 05:00 PM
you are thinking gas talking water lines.
A hot water tank IMO is not a diy project unless you have a good back ground in plumbing.
yar, I was only being fool enough to think about replacing the flexi line but I wouldn't do a full replacement. I didn't realize the tank was that old. I found these forums researching the possibly of tank-less.
Thanks for the feed back.
alternety
12-01-2007, 05:50 PM
Anecdotal post. I am not a pro - the only failure I have had in interior plumbing in 50 years or so was an amateur patch to a radiant baseboard system that used the corrigated copper stuff. In the ceiling, 3 days before inspection for sale contract. It was clearly a patch. My take on the pipe was that it flexed enough on those thin corrigations to cause stress fractures.
Gary Swart
12-01-2007, 05:56 PM
Not sure what the perceived problem is with flex copper lines to connect water heaters. It seems to be a very common practice, and my supply house furnishes them with the heaters they sell. Now, nothing is forever, but unless the flex line is kinked or otherwise damaged, they should last the life the heater. I like the brass nipples. If the tank is 16 years old, I'd sure consider a new one. The Rheem/GE seems to be an excellent choice, and yes, do stay away from Whirlpool.
construct30
12-01-2007, 06:03 PM
I never cared for them so I never checked, but is there good ones and bad ones like every thing else?
Winslow
12-01-2007, 06:35 PM
The nipples need to be replaced. even if you were to put new galvanized nipples in they would most likely outlast the tank. Brass nipples are the way to go when installing a new tank.
westcoastplumber
12-01-2007, 06:43 PM
I personally wouldn't replace the tank because the nipples and flex lines are bad.
I would pull the nipples out, install brass nipples and 2 new water heater flex lines.
You may have 1-5 more years left in your heater.
If you live in los angeles county, water heaters are going up in price at teh end of december due to the new lo nox laws.
Gary Swart
12-01-2007, 07:07 PM
If you are referring to the flex hoses, I can't say for sure, but a good plumbing shop will have the best available. Big box stores may or may not have the best quality. I think they are all pretty much the same.
So I got a couple quotes, and they both told me I should attempt to replace the nipples first. So I got the flexi off just fine, but the nipples are being a pita. Any advice on removing stuck nipples?
alternety
12-03-2007, 04:43 PM
ooh - my wife hates that when it happens.
construct30
12-03-2007, 04:46 PM
Keep putting PB Blaster on it for a while and the use a pipe wrench and muscle. I have tried to get rusted nipples out even after I took the tank out by putting the tank on it's side and hitting a pipe wrench with a hammer and couldn't get them out, they finally break off. Putting a pipe on the handle of a good pipe wrench helps add leverage, but only to the point you can't hold the tank from spinning. That's why several people suggested replacement. You get the job started and then have to live without hot water until it gets done. For most of us, it's not worth the effort.
Verdeboy
12-03-2007, 04:58 PM
So I got a couple quotes, and they both told me I should attempt to replace the nipples first. So I got the flexi off just fine, but the nipples are being a pita. Any advice on removing stuck nipples?
Sadists they are. Removing those fittings is very difficult, and they can easily break off. And, as the last poster said, not worth the effort for an old tank like that.
construct30
12-03-2007, 05:23 PM
I like to open the drain valve before I disconnect the tank from the supply. Some times the water won't drain out once it is disconnected if the drain is plugged. The pressure helps push the garbage out of the bottom of the tank, then you can disconnect it and let the water finish draining. If you break the nipples off then they can't do that and will have to wrestle with a full tank. Be sure to call one of the guys that suggested you try repairing the nipples if that happens. If you've been opening the drain once and a while like you're supposed to then it won't be an issue and the tank will drain easily once it is disconnected.
they prolly told my wife to do that in hopes the tank would break, cause getting those nipples off is one crazy ass idea :p
The leak was caused by the o-ring washer dieing in the copper flexi. I couldn't budge the nipple, so I cleaned it up with a wire brush (and cloth), then put a new copper flexi on. Temporary fix but it's stopped the leaking for now.
Verdeboy
12-03-2007, 06:06 PM
Heck, the bottom of that tank will probably rust through way before those skanky nipples do.
construct30
12-03-2007, 06:09 PM
I've seen brand new tanks go bad in as little as six months or less if they have a leak on top of them. It seems like once that insulation gets wet down through the tank, one of the seams is going to give.
I'm using copper flexes. Some are a bit better than others. I don't like the ones that have a partial straight section. My favorite was the stainless steel ones, but the company that made the good ones went out of business several years ago. You can still get SS ones, though, and they're far less likely to pinhole over time.