What to do about damaged walls behind tiles?

We moved in our house about 6 years ago and our front bathroom has an enamel tub with tile from the top of the tub almost up to the ceiling. Whoever did the tile work didn't do a great job and water has gotten behind the tiles. I took off the bottom two rows of tiles and the rock behind the tiles has wicked water and is totally rotten and moldy. I would really like to go back with a shower/tub that would go almost to the ceiling. What steps do I need to take and what do I need to use to replace the sheetrock or green board or whatever the rotten stuff is behind the tile. I don't want to spend a fortune and I would like to do as much as possible by myself.

Your situation is pretty common. Spend some time reading @ http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php and you will quickly get up to speed on what you should do. Don't forget to check the "Liberry," as there is plenty of fancy stuff in there to learn!

That John Bridge site has a lot of info on tiling. But it sounds like you just want to replace the tile with a tub surround.

If that's the case, just demo all 3 walls (remove the tile and wallboard). Install new sheetrock and tub surround. Caulk all seams and you're done.

Verdeboy said:

That John Bridge site has a lot of info on tiling. But it sounds like you just want to replace the tile with a tub surround.

If that's the case, just demo all 3 walls (remove the tile and wallboard). Install new sheetrock and tub surround. Caulk all seams and you're done.

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Sheetrock? In a tub surround? Isn't that how he wound up with this problem in the first place?

Use backerboard. And a membrane - either under the backerboard, or surface-applied like Kerdi - lapped into the tub. And use thinset, not mastic, to apply the new tile.

I'll second Frenchie's comments...I'd never use drywall in a tub/shower surround. Now, maybe if it was a soaker tub and a surface treatment was done (I'd use Kerdi), but forget the mold food of normal drywall. Tile and grout, even with caulk will not prevent moisture from getting behind the tile. You need something that won't be affected by the moisture, like a cement board (cbu) with a vapor barrier somewhere in there to protect the stud cavity.

get sponsored by a manufacturer of shower membrane product. That will be the lowest cost solution.

you can be a living example of what not to do, and what to do.

You can ultimately choose your sponsor's product after a lengthy period where you investigate all other options, and then put them down for various and sundry reasons.

You can transfer enthusiasm and belief to the mass market. I believe in you.

david

I've looked at dozens of "How To" sites on the web, and they all pretty much say the same thing regarding tub surrounds:

"You can install a shower/tub surround kit over any material that is solid, flat and in good structural condition. This includes tile, plaster and drywall."

The thread-starter said the following, "I don't want to spend a fortune and I would like to do as much as possible by myself."

I don't believe that a retile is what he or she has in mind.

It requires a lot more money, tools, knowledge, and experience than simply installing a tub surround.

I'm sorry. I missed that we were talking about a fiberglass tub surround... Completely just missed what he meant... and read your post too fast ("replace tile in tub surround", versus "replace tile with tub surround")

In my defense, I wasn't the only one...

FWIW, a little extra safety - I'd still use backerboard, instead of sheetrock, behind a prefab tub surround.

go all the way if its nasty

I hate it when you got ot tear everything
out due to water getting in behind the walls.....


usually once you start you find much more rottern
and mouldy junk in the walls than you first thought possible.......under the actual tub area.......


then when you try to re-use the tub and tile down to it, when you are done it still looks "old and used"


Depending on your skill level, and depending on wether you have a window over the tub to deal with,

might I suggest you tear out the whole thing right down to the bare studs and start from scratch???

It might be more trouble and it might not be....

Installing a STERLING fiberglass bath tub and surround
certainly clean up the whole area and look great when you are done.

Perhaps this is more tah you want to get into,,,, but take a look anyway.


http://www.sterlingplumbing.com/difference/bathing.html

Sheetrock? In a tub surround? Isn't that how he wound up with this problem in the first place?

Use backerboard. And a membrane - either under the backerboard, or surface-applied like Kerdi - lapped into the tub. And use thinset, not mastic, to apply the new tile. Steel Pipe stainless steel pipe stainless steel wire

There are several options.
You can use a solid surface material such as Corian or Formica Solid surface. Many nice colors to choose from. It can be cut and shaped real easy. Cost however does come into play. the nicer colors are fairly expensive.
Many tub surround kits can be cut for openings as well, they just do not look as good because most cutting does not provide a finished edge trim.
The tile removal process along with the decay will be what it is. The water damage will only get worse as you move down the wall below the window.
If you have not removed the tile on the side walls and have not got to far removing the window wall tiles. Once you get to the end of the rot, you could always reframe the damaged area and use a tile that will accent the older tiles so you do not have to remove all of them.
But if you decide to go the whole route of removal. Be sure to upgrade the faucet, shower head and plumbing behind the wall. As it will surly leak once your get your new walls up and done. I think its called Murphys law.

allnewbath said:

Be sure to upgrade the faucet, shower head and plumbing behind the wall. As it will surly leak once your get your new walls up and done. I think its called Murphys law.

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That makes no sense. If the plumbing and shower manifold are okay, then, unless you want to add $500-$1000 to the job, I'd just leave them alone.