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View Full Version : heating system valve leak, please help!!!



lmei007
11-13-2007, 08:54 PM
I have two valves leak (maybe too old). One is in the heating system. here is the photos: http://flickr.com/photos/lmei007/?saved=1 All of them are on the basement ceiling.

Questions for you guys:

Do I need to replace the whole valve? Can I just replace the parts to avoid cut and soldering? (The 'good valve' shows the parts replacement?)

my heating system is oil hot-water system. Do I need to drain out all the water to do the replacement?

how much it will cost roughly for a professional to do it?

thanks

CHH
11-13-2007, 09:04 PM
Have you tried tightening the packing nuts? It's no big deal to either tighten the nut or if that fails to replace the packing. Absolutely no need to replace the valves or drain the system at all (other than relieve pressure). Maybe put a bucket under the valve while futzing around with it.

lmei007
11-13-2007, 09:42 PM
Have you tried tightening the packing nuts? It's no big deal to either tighten the nut or if that fails to replace the packing. Absolutely no need to replace the valves or drain the system at all (other than relieve pressure). Maybe put a bucket under the valve while futzing around with it.

Thank you very much. I feel better now. I will try to replace the packing tomorrow morning.

lmei007
11-14-2007, 08:47 AM
Have you tried tightening the packing nuts? It's no big deal to either tighten the nut or if that fails to replace the packing. Absolutely no need to replace the valves or drain the system at all (other than relieve pressure). Maybe put a bucket under the valve while futzing around with it.

I tightened the packing nuts. It seems work. Thank you sir.

CHH
11-14-2007, 12:02 PM
Glad it worked out for you.

Ian Gills
11-14-2007, 12:30 PM
If you do replace them in the future, in Washington DC I would expect to pay $200 each for a professional to be called out and to change them to quarter turn ball valves.

At prices like these, I have learned how to solder.

But I would always use a pro for a main shut-off valve. Indeed I recently had my two mains valves replaced (one before and one after the meter). Cost just over $400. But worth it.

Looking at your bad valves, there is some tricky soldering required here. So I would be tempted to call a pro for that, again if you do decide to change them in the future. Having the joints so near the elbow and the Tee will require some care and will require some more pipe and possibly some new fixtures. Not to mention the wood and the ceiling (fire).

Now let's see how many of you plumbers start saying how you want to move to the nation's capital!!!!

lmei007
11-18-2007, 06:18 AM
thank you guys.

I will replace them next summer. I am planning to add zones then (one zone now). I will do the piping work by myself. I am a handy man and I did my solar panel hot water system repiping few weeks ago. But I am first time house owner. I am lack of experience.

appreciated!

lmei007
11-18-2007, 06:30 AM
to change them to quarter turn ball valves.



Why is the quarter turn ball valves ? easy to shut off? or other special reasons? thanks

jimbo
11-18-2007, 07:03 AM
On your second and third questions...about the woodstove, and this one about the valves....the link takes me to the pictures of the fireplace ash door, from the first post. (Maybe it's just me?)

lmei007
11-18-2007, 07:16 AM
try this again please: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lmei007/?saved=1 you will see about 9 photos, look the title to find a right one please.