View Full Version : extraction of foot valve
11-12-2007, 09:40 AM
Hey Terry, I have a jet pump for my sprinkler system that won't hold a prime. I have pulled the pump and filled the suction pipe with a hose and it goes down. I tried to pull the foot valve up so I could change it out and I snapped off the pipe just about 2" down. It is schedule 40 PVC pipe and I have Ideas to get it out but first I want to know how I should have done it in the first place. To get out the broken pipe I was thinking about finding a compression washer that I could stick in the top of the pipe, tighten it to grip the inside of the pipe and then pull it up with a tripod and pulley. What do you think? Thanks.
11-12-2007, 09:53 AM
What size is this well? Do you have two pipes going to this well or just one? What did you do to get to this pipe that you broke off? Do you have a picture you can post?
11-12-2007, 10:25 AM
the outside pipe is about 2 1/4" outside diameter and the inner pipe is 1 1/4" inside diameter. I think the well is about 45-50' deep. I tied the flange to my floor jack and tried to lift it that way. The pull was a bit off vertical so I think that's why it broke. I just thought I could break it loose and then lift it by hand. I'll post pictures as soon as I can figure out how.
11-12-2007, 10:32 AM
Actually it broke off right at the flange and is sitting higher than the down pipe.
11-12-2007, 10:43 AM
Ridgid makes a set of pipe extractors for broken threaded stubs, but they might work here as well.
11-12-2007, 11:14 AM
That is a two inch well and the droppipe looks like 1-1/2" ID like you said. Wrong size though. One and a quarter ID is the right size. The other major problem is the fact that someone used PVC instead of Galvanized. Chances are, you will never see that jet again. They come out real hard in most cases and the PVC won't be strong enough to pull it.
If you can get on it with a Pipe Wrench, try turning it clockwise to loosen it some and break the leathers loose, then try to work it up and down to wear them out. Straight pulling with a jack is just going to break it again.
11-15-2007, 04:16 PM
I tried turning the suction pipe with the foot valve and it just won't budge. Since it's PVC it is quite flexible and I can turn it almost a full turn but I don't want to turn it any farther for fear that it will break off. I don't know what to try next. Did you say there is leather down at the foot valve? I know about the leather at the top of the well but I wasn't aware of leather down below. Do you have any other suggestions before I just twist the hell out of the suction pipe? I think I'm at the point of either breaking it loose or just breaking it. Thanks.
11-16-2007, 06:30 AM
You are at the point of breaking it. There is no leather at the top, just a rubber gland that gets squashed to seal the casing adaptor to the casing.
There are two leathers on the jet in the well. The foot valve is below the leathers. You will have to turn it until it either breaks or breaks loose which ever comes first. It's the only choice you have. After having done thousands of these in my younger years, I can tell you that PVC is not the choice of pros for droppipe. Galvanized it the only way to fly.
11-16-2007, 08:08 AM
The best way to attach to a PVC pipe to pull on it is to make a square cut, clean the end well, and cement on a SCHEDULE 40 or SCHEDULE 80 male or female adapter using the best available procedure including primer. After letting it cure for at least a day, screw on a steel fitting that you have drilled or otherwise adapted to get a straight pull.
Once you have that piece of steel at the top you can beat on it a bit with a hammer. The shock may break something loose without breaking the pipe.
The available strength of the pipe relative to the "friction" or adhesion of the thing you are trying to move is greater for a straight tension pull than it is for torsion.
11-18-2007, 09:29 AM
thanks Bob, that was my instinct, that PVC has greater strength in tension than it does in torsion. If I do get this foot valve up I will replace it with gavanized pipe like Speedbump said. Is there a good way to lubricate the downpipe so the leather will slide? Thanks again.
11-19-2007, 06:31 AM
The problem with BobNh's theory which is true, (the pipe will take more pull than twist) is that those leathers are like part of the pipe (casing) and unless you can turn them first to break them loose, chances are you will pull the PVC apart at a joint. Leathers have to be finessed out of a well not pulled. I have seen some things go very high in the air once the pipe let go somewhere down the well and all the strain on the cable/rope is released. Better find a good roof to get under before it all comes down.
With galvanized pipe, I have seen the front wheels of one guys rig off the ground trying to straight pull one. I tried to tell this amateur he was going about this all wrong. I left when he refused to listen. Then came back with my rig and got it out after he left.