To Replace shower valve or NOT to replace shower valve

To all those whom I've received previous help from in this forum....THANK YOU. This site is fantastic...I appreciate everyone taking the time to help.

Anyway, I have a pull/push shower valve in my 1964 built home. I believe it's original, but it's hard to tell. The old valve works well, but I belive it is outdated by design. There was only 1 design choice I could pick out at HD and it's crappy looking. There are so many new styles with great finishes, but the valves are not the same...right?!!? Or am I wrong? Can I just switch something out to change it from a pull/push valve to turn style one? Or do I have to replace the whole thing. I can do that, but I obviously want to avoid cutting and soldering! Please let me know. thanks!

I have a photo, but can't paste into this text area. I can email you a photo if you need to see more. thanks.

by the way...i'm down to the studs and no tub so I have plenty of room to work with.

Well, conversion from push/pull to turn probably isn't possible without changing the valve. Plus, a valve that old doesn't have the required new safety anti-scald features. So, While you are remodeling, I'd change the valve, get something you like the look of, and get the new safety features. Personally, I like the thermostatic valves, but those cost more than the other approved type (pressure balanced). Keep in mind that with the new valves, typically, only the thermostatic valves have a volume control if that is important to you.

jadnashua - thanks for your help. So you're telling me that it will be in my best interest to replace the head? If so, can I keep the old copper there around the valve by reheating the solder? Or do I have to replace all the piping that leads to it? Hopefully it's not the latter.

Typically you will cut the copper lines feeding the valve and re-pipe the new one in it's entirety (new tub spout and shower head...)
Should only take about an hour or so (double that if you have never done one) and a handfull of fittings and maybe 10' of 1/2" pipe (type L is preferable)...
New valve will have to be set to the right depth so make sure you know how thick the wall will be when finished... (drywall/CBU + membrane + thinset + tile +...)