My new Well!

theelviscerator

theelviscerator

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The crew is here setting up drilling rig...will post pics and info for those who care!

Going from a hand driven point to 4" submersible, Martins Well Service is doing the work, their motto Quality, not quantity....

:)
 
Keep your day job! comedy is not your forte'...heh..

2.5 hrs after start well casing set, 55' depth. Putting out 100GPM during development.

He's left for the moment to take the rig back and come back with excavation and plumbing equipment.
 

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The cost difference isn't as important as what can happen to 4" PVC casing.

If your pump gets in the no water run until it nukes position or it just can't shut off for some reason and runs until it gets hot enough to nuke itself, your casing will shrink above the pump enough that you can't get the pump out of the well. I've seen it happen more than once. Those folks needed new wells.

bob...
 
Well it's finished.....

55' Deep.....water level is 5' from ground level.... haha! (lake area) During pump down test at 100gpm never reached the air hose at 35' so nuking the pump should be impossible....barring some freak thing. system does have 100 psi relief that drains under house should it go off....

Putting out 15 gpm out of a 75' hose through hose bib at pump...holding 40psi... Pump is 1/2 hp Myers rated at 12gpm....

Cleanup time!

Btw the cost should be around 2500. ( my tank)
 

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Nice but how do you keep your pc so pretty? Mine is purple from all the primer.

Whats the wire[?] sticking out of a gas or water line?
 
I think he should have used more elbows on that homeade tank tee!

I would like to see how he finishes up with the wiring.

bob...
 
Galv nipples to the pressure switch is a bad idea. They will rust closed in a couple of years, then your pump won't be able to shut off. Depending on the pump, it may not be able to produce a 100 PSI to pop off the pressure relief, then the motor will get hot, melt the casing, and be stuck in the well as Speedbump suggested. I have even seen this happen with 5" PVC. It will also happen if the well head freezes, the pump wears down, the intake screen is plugged, or if the pump is installed below the well screen.

Where is your Cycle Stop Valve?
 
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I don't like it or the looks of it. The 4" PVC is a problem with a 4" submersible pump; they actually measure 3 and 7/8". That's a 1/16" clearance around it in the 4" casing. I would want a 5" or 6" casing.

I really don't like home made tank tees... and if you think about it, where the boiler drain valve is prevents fully draining the tank. And why he used like 2" PVC is beyond me!!

The galvanized nipples and such the switch is set on is ridiculous! It will eventually rust closed and prevent the pump from coming on or to shut off late, or otherwise lag.

And this running the pressure relief under the house.... does that actually mean any water dumps under house/cellar floor? If so that is way wrong IMO.

Now we go to quality, as in water quality. With 100 gpm recovery, that says the chance of contamination is way high.... and with a water table of only 5'!
 
I would cut in a union between the tank and the first tee, and put in a tee with the drain valve at that level so the tank can be completely drained.

Otherwise, get a union when you replace the tank.

If you are fabricating the "tank tee" functions from PVC you can just as easily use PVC with threaded bushings for the pressure switch and gauge.

I suspect we don't see purple primer because it wasn't used.

Many places prohibit use of PVC in a residence. Your installation may not be in a residence.
 
Bob NH brings up a good point. Purple primer wasn't used, is it CODE to use the purple stuff, or could you just use acetone. I remember in the old days when doing irrigation lines I would just lightly sand the PVC, never saw one blow apart, however I have seen other peoples joints with purple primer blow apart (probably bad glue).

Rancher
 
Gary Slusser said:
I don't like it or the looks of it. The 4" PVC is a problem with a 4" submersible pump; they actually measure 3 and 7/8". That's a 1/16" clearance around it in the 4" casing. I would want a 5" or 6" casing.

I really don't like home made tank tees... and if you think about it, where the boiler drain valve is prevents fully draining the tank. And why he used like 2" PVC is beyond me!! It's 1 1/4"

The galvanized nipples and such the switch is set on is ridiculous! It will eventually rust closed and prevent the pump from coming on or to shut off late, or otherwise lag. So this should be what material?

And this running the pressure relief under the house.... does that actually mean any water dumps under house/cellar floor? If so that is way wrong IMO.

Now we go to quality, as in water quality. With 100 gpm recovery, that says the chance of contamination is way high.... and with a water table of only 5'!
Click to expand...

So show me a picture of how you do it.....

Btw Gary I am interested in possibly buying one of your softeners....I went over the sizing chart and stuff and went through the custom make your own unit dealie, but I quit at the media selection stage...you could have a chart detailing which media to use for what kind of conditions..
 
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