HammerSlammer
New Member
I'm moving my water heater and I guess i will need a disconnect at the new location. So i'm thinking a metal box with a double pole single throw 30 amp switch will do. Am I close?? Thanks!!
Chris75 said:Or
Maybe he's moving the heater next to the panel so he would not even need a separate disconnect...
jadnashua said:By definition, it would seem that if you have a 30A breaker, the disconnect would need to be rated for at least 30A; I think the 60A isn't needed. If I understand this, it's sort of like sizing the wiring, you can't use less than 12g on a 20A circuit, but 10g would be overkill...why spend the money unless you have a very long run.
jadnashua said:Sounds like a plan, then. I was just figuring the 30A would be cheaper, and was all that was required. Must be a volume thing...
I'm not sure what this has to do with the original question about needing a disconnect.cwhyu2 said:I would run 10/3wground from your main panel ,install new 30 amp brkr
unless you need to upgrade your service and panel.
Speedy Petey said:I'm not sure what this has to do with the original question about needing a disconnect.
Also, 10/3 is NOT needed for a water heater. 10/2 is perfect and typical for this installation.
Using 10/3 is basically wasteful.
hammerslammer said:How about the idea that (smart) water heaters of the future might requie a neutral?? Just remembering the days when we ran 10-2 for dryers....
I did price out a roll of 10-2 and 10-3 the other day. More than a water heater.
Bob NH said:Anyone that builds a "smart" water heater that requires a neutral or a 120 Volt circuit has proved that he is not smart enough to build a "smart" water heater.
hammerslammer said:Just remembering the days when we ran 10-2 for dryers....
Speedy Petey said:As I scroll down I see Chris beat me to the reply.
I see old 10/2 all the times used for dryers. This was NEVER code legal NOR was it ever safe!!!!
Folks who used 10/2 for dryers simply did not know, or care to know, the code.
ABSOLUTELY NOT!hj said:10/2 w grd was the standard for decades before the 4 terminal plugs were adopted.
Which is the reason for needing an insulated neutral as opposed to a bare ground. Any kind of 10/3 was safe in the past. 10/2 was NOT.hj said:......whether it is a 10/2 or 10/3 w ground. And they were always "safe" because the neutral and shell were bonded together.
This is awkward, but...
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