Cost to have gas line ran to stove?

enviroko

enviroko

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Hi, can anyone give me a ballpark figure for having the following job done?

We currently have an electric stove but our natural gas line runs directly under (full basement) the stove and we plan to switch to gas. So all that I believe needs to be done is to tap into this line and run a line up through the floor to the stove.

I want to have someone come in and do it to make sure that is to code but I don't want to get taken.

Thanks!
 
Too many unmentioned variables there.
Joist direction...any drilling?, gas main size & number of BTU's attached vs length, availability for connection to the main...will it need to be threaded? or is there a tee available?
Best to get a couple of estimates...or take pics, post them and hope we can see whats there.

Could be a $150 quicky, could be a whole day $1,000+....
 
* The pipe is 1" OD & very easily accessable.
* Runs parallel to the joists but it needs to move one joist over to go up through the floor behind the stove. I will drill hole before the plumber comes in.
* The pipe has no T, pipe will need to be threaded. It is currently a straight pipe that runs right on past the stove area.
* BTUs I don't know.
 
I'm no expert but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night.

I'd say between $250 and $500.

Tom
 
enviroko said:
* The pipe is 1" OD & very easily accessable.
* Runs parallel to the joists but it needs to move one joist over to go up through the floor behind the stove. I will drill hole before the plumber comes in.
* The pipe has no T, pipe will need to be threaded. It is currently a straight pipe that runs right on past the stove area.
* BTUs I don't know.
Click to expand...
I would let the plumer do the drilling. He/she may drill first or may get the T in and then drill to where it ended up. You want the min size hole you can get. Drilling first and then having to ream out the whole would suck. Also what if you slip and cut the pipe? Probably wont damage it too bad but it may make for a problem. All in all I think the drilling is the minimal part of the project. You wont save much time of money and may cost extra!
 
What else is being fed by this line?
You can only run so many BTUs on a given length of 1"...
Does your water heater, clothes dryer, furnace, bar-b-que etc run on the same line?
How about a gas fired pool heater etc...
Once you know how many BTUs you are drawing from that line, you can figure if the new fixture will overtax it (some gas ranges can run upwards of 85-100,000 BTUs though most are less)
A 1" pipe with the furthest fixture having 80' of pipe to it can only support 222,000 BTUs
As well, be aware that cutting a t into the middle of an existing gas line is going to be a pain... The plumber is going to have to use a left and right nipple and the whole system will likely have to be re-tested and inspected if the work is going to be permitted (I would advise to have a permit pulled and inspection done...)
 
Last edited:
trak pipe

Trak pipe is the way I would go.But you need to have someone trained
to install this product.Look it up.
 
cwhyu2 said:
Trak pipe is the way I would go.But you need to have someone trained
to install this product.Look it up.
Click to expand...

Here lies the irony, I'm certified in tracpipe and wardflex (like thats a big deal).
I still prefer hard piping over it.
 
i once had this done... listen to this....

i called the plumber.... and he started dragging out this very thick book.. looked at my project... started doing all this estimating stuff.... came up to 1300.

i said thanks... somehow i got taken for 35 dollars for the estimate.

called the gas company.... done for 225.


second house.... had a friend do it... about 150 including materials..

both of these jobs were very similar... under house access two runs with a couple of 90's.

both were black pipe... code here allows flexible...but i wanted black pipe
 
gas company

Our gas company is NOT ALLOWED to do any piping after the meter, regardless of the amount. And they value their cushy jobs too much to rist side jobs.
 
Don't forget you will need an electrician to add a 115v receptacle for the gas stove... unless you were going to do that work yourself...
 
If you go with a dual-fuel stove, then you'd need 240vac...while you're at it, another circuit for a vent hood, and maybe more to bring the room up to code while you're at it.
 
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