Question about delta kitch. faucet repair

Hello there, I've read several guides on this common repair online, and while I have the basics down, I can't seem to get my delta kitchen faucet to work exactly right.

It's a very basic Delta faucet that uses the #70 repair kit. I purchase all my parts from local hardware store Hardware Sales.

My problems:
1. I have a very difficult time getting the white plastic piece that has the "shield" shape to hold in place while I put the metal cap on. Should it be that hard to push down? It takes tremendous force to get the little plastic side-nub to go into the slot. The seats and springs are in the right place, so I don't think that's it.
2. Once I do get the white shield thingy seated, I have to tighten the cap-ring too much to stop the leaks, so much so that it makes the faucet handle hard to move. I'm talking about the inner brass / plastic ring on the cap assembly, that you can tighten with a spanner. If I loosen the ring, water leaks out the top of the assembly when moving from "off - down" position to either of the side positions. It's not a flood, but it's enough to be annoying.

Should I just buy a new delta faucet? This one has been here about 9 years. The pressure required to move the handle now bends the stainless sink tub too much to my liking, due to the cap-tightness necessary to prevent leaking.

Thanks for any help.
Kevin Statema

Kevin,
These Delta faucets can be adjusted by turning the plastic ring just inside and under the edge of dome cap without turning off the water.
Delta makes a tool that comes with the kits with two "ears", but you can use the ends of needle-nosed pliers to stick in the two opposing slots in that ring to turn the ring...clockwise to tighten it, counter-clockwise to loosen it.
The tighter you turn the ring the harder the handle is to operate, which also wears out the seats on the springs faster.
Try adjusting the ring. Delta's are great faucets. They're all that I've had in my home (by choice) for more than 30 years!
www.deltafaucets.com
Good Luck!
Mike

Right, that adjusting ring is what I meant by the "cap ring." The problem is, if I loosen it enough to make the handle "normal stiffness" the water leaks a bit from the cap while moving the handle around. If I tighten it to where the leak stops, the handle is too stiff and torques the stainless sink when moved. Is there some mistake I might have made in the assembly that would cause this?

faucet

THe problem may be the parts you are using if they are not in "Delta" OEM package. I have never had the problem you descsribe when using the correct parts.

Usually, you only need to replace the spout o-rings, the rubber seats and springs. If that's the case, try using your old ball stem, cam, and cap, and see if that solves your problem.

You can also try using some plumber's grease on the ball stem.

gasket under V thingy shield

did you get a rubber gasket that goes under the

round plastic V shield cap thingy???


that is what is leaking on you....


if you only got rubber seat washers , that rubber
that goes under the white cap between the Delta ball and the outer

plastic V thingy is worn out and leaking on you

it needs to be changed out tooo.....

I purchased a full kit, with a stainless steel ball. Everything in there is new, including the black round seal that goes under the "shield" cap.

I took it back apart and looked at all the pieces. There were 2 types of black rubber seats (I think you call them) to sit on the tapered springs. I used the replacement seats with a longer "skirt" to them as they seemed to stay in place better, but there was a second pair in the repair kit that were shorter and more rounded at the top. I'm not sure why there were two versions in the repair kit... did I use the wrong one? To be specific, the two small black rubber seals are:
1. one with a slightly concave top, and flared "skirt" toward the bottom
2. one with a shorter "skirt" and a more convex, rounded-edge top.

There are two types of Delta seat/spring sets, for models made before or after 1972. The long cylindrical springs are for the OLD, the short tapered spring is the new style. Seats should mate with the proper spring. With the short springs, if you have trouble with leaks, you can just slightly stretch the spring for greater tension. You normally should not need to do that.

Make sure your seats/springs match what came out.

Ok I think I used the new correct springs with the old incorrect seats. Thank you for all the help. I'm going to use that plumbers grease as well, figure it can't hurt.