American Standard toilet not shutting off after flushing!

Need some help, or I'll go insane.

Our <1 year old toilet is not shutting off after being flushed.

The water is leaking out of the water control assembly causing the water to exceed the height limit I've set with the supply valve body. The water then pours into the overflow tube causing the toilet to NOT STOP RUNNING

I have flushed the supply valve body and also have rinsed and cleaned (with only water) the valve cap and supply tube (with screen). This didn't work. I'm thinking I may have to replace the whole water control assembly, but that's 25 dollars. I'm thinking the rubber on the supply tube may have become "gunked" to the point where cleaning it doesn't help, but not sure. Any ideas?

Not sure if that brand uses a proprietary fill valve or a more generic one. If it is something like either a Korky or Fluidmaster, they can be repaired with a couple dollar part. In the interim, so your water bill and septic system isn't overloaded, shut the supply valve off in between flushes...it can add up to a lot of water if left running. If it is a standard configuration, you could also replace the valve with a Korky or Fluidmaster - they cost around $10 at HD or Lowes.

Ballcock style fill valves usually have a diaphragm that can be replaced. If yours is a fluidmaster type fill valve, then it's time to replace the fill valve.

On the Fluidmaster valves, the wear part takes about 30-seconds to replace and costs a buck or so. Same with the Korky (or at least some models).

leak

It is probably a yellow top Smart Valve, and they are useless and this happens frequently. Replace it with a Fluidmaster fill valve.

jadnashua said:

On the Fluidmaster valves, the wear part takes about 30-seconds to replace and costs a buck or so. Same with the Korky (or at least some models).

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We're getting a real hardware store here finally (ACE) so maybe they'll carry the Fluidmaster replacement seal. I've never seen one, so I didn't think it existed.

You turn the wall shut off, a quarter turn, pull the head off, pop out the seal, put in a new one, set the head back on, lock it in place, then turn the water back on...quick and easy...like new operation.

The Korky takes only a little longer (but not much) since you have to remove the cap, the float, then you can remove the inner cap seal.

hj said:

It is probably a yellow top Smart Valve, and they are useless and this happens frequently. Replace it with a Fluidmaster fill valve.

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That's exactly what it is. I've taken this thing apart so many times to clean, but I can't figure out what's making it leak. I will definitely look into a Fluidmaster. The stupid American Standard part is about 25 bux I'm afraid I'll have to stock up on those if they keep failing at this rate.