Type of Pipe Used When Driving a Well-Point??

What type of pipe should I use with a well-point when driving it? Only expect to go down less than 30 feet with it.

I see galvanized steel, galvanized iron, and I would guess there are others out there in the stores.

secondly, is there special threads on pipe that is used with well-points that are less likely to break (even with drive couplings) when the pipe is pounded into the ground?

Thanx for any help.

We always use 1-1/4" standard galvanized steel pipe in 5' joints (with standard pipe threads) when hand-driving a well. We typically put down "3 joints and a point". The longer the point the better in my opinion (of 3', 4' or 5' choices).
A shallow well with a surface shallow well pump should have no more than 25' between the end of the point and the pump. Use a check valve on the suction side of the pump to hold the prime since you won't have a foot valve.
We use a heavy-duty Schedule 80 black iron coupling tightened on as tight as we can get it to drive with. The Schedule 80 coupling is then removed, then we wrap about 3-4 flat turns of teflon tape clockwise only on the male threads of the pipe as the threaded end faces you and tighten a standard galvanized coupling on as tight as we can get it. You will need a back-up wrench to hold the pipe as you tighten the couplings and additional joints on.
After we get the 3 joints and the point driven, we then use a pitcher pump to hand pump off the sand out of the well until it runs fairly clean before hooking it up to the electric pump. I use 1-1/4" PVC white plastic from a plugged galvanized T off of the top of the last pipe joint to the pump.
If you need to know how to prime a pump, I'll be glad to go into that for you, too.
Do not install a well within 100' of any part of a septic system BTW.
I've helped drive enough wells in my day for myself and friends that I know that I won't do it any more (aged out). LOL
Good Luck!
Mike

Modern galvanized pipe doesn't always seem as strong as yesteryear's. I've seen some comments about how the pipe failed to hold its shape while being driven. One company has 'A' and 'B' galvanized (B is stronger) and also offers "Reamed and drifted" Water Well Pipe, and specifically uses the term "driving of pipe" ~ whether this Reamed-and-Drifted pipe is also made by the continuous-welding process used for most steel pipe manufacturing, I don't know.

Wet_Boots,
You're right, but I was hoping that anyone driving a well would be sure and avoid that cheapo imported junk, and would know to go with quality pipe.
Mike

For all I know, the "driveability" of yesteryear's galvanized was a quality that no one had intentionally designed into the product. I know that steel pipe wasn't always made by the continuous welding process, but when that changed, I don't know. No question, though, that some of the Chinese-made galvanized steel pipe I've used did not seem to have the weight or 'feel' of older pipe.