How to break concrete around copper?

Pewterpower

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What is the best way to break away concrete slab when you have a pipe (copper) in it?
Let's say I have a pinhole leak in a pipe (in the slab) and I know where it is, I just want to bust away the concrete. I fear that breaking the concrete away will cause further damage. Or worse, the damaged copper that I find is not the original leak, but a pinhole that I created while busting the slab.

BTW, I don't have a problem (QUICK--- everybody knock on wood!) It was just a conversation I was having with someone about all the slab leaks we get here in Florida.
 
very gently----

Its best to make a Large hole around the whole area

to keep from disturbing the pipe too much....


you are going to have room to work anyway,,,,

so you might as well make a good sizedhole probably about 10 inches out around that pipe to get your
paws and pipe cutters down into the hole


and you will probably have to get under slab
6 inches or so to get onto clean pipe....


you can run into many surprises doing this

have fun
 
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Once you get the concrete around the leak broken out and patch the leak, how long do you suppose it will be before you have another leak in another area? As I understand it, concrete and copper do not live well together so I fear that more leaks are probably not too far in the future. I would suggest you look for a suitable way to bypass the pipes in the slab completely.
 
I agree with you about the repipe. But I'm just curious about the best way to bust out the concrete.
What is an adequate tool for a DIYer to have in his toolbox? I would assume that you wouldn't want to cut the concrete, for fear of cutting a pipe. Chisel and a BFH? I was thinking more of a mini hand held jack hammer type kinda thing.
 
I use a 3 function rotary hammer/drill for breaking small areas of concrete and drill holes in concrete. These cost about $130 and I have used mine enough to more than pay for owning my own. It's not a tool for 8 hour days busting concrete on a demolition job, but a great one for small DIY jobs. Got mine from Grizzly Industrial whom I highly recommend. I really can't say that you could break concrete around copper pipe without damaging the pipe with any tool, but this would probably comes as close as anything. These use the SDS system, and come with a pointed chisel, a flat blade chisel and 3 or 4 drill bits. Bits are inexpensive and easy to find. You can drill holes in concrete almost as fast as you can drill a hole in wood.
 
Gary Swart said:
Once you get the concrete around the leak broken out and patch the leak, how long do you suppose it will be before you have another leak in another area? As I understand it, concrete and copper do not live well together so I fear that more leaks are probably not too far in the future. I would suggest you look for a suitable way to bypass the pipes in the slab completely.

Local code requires we sleeve any pipe through a foundation at least two pipes sizes larger, or 1" annular for expansion/contraction and especially for copper through concrete for the chemical reaction.
As for freeing the copper line...I'd use my rotary and drill 3/4" to 1" holes within an inch or two around the circumerence of the pipe...once all the way around you should be able to lightly chisel out the piece without jeopardizing the copper, then break away more concrete to make room to work...patience.
 
When I was working as apartment manager, about once a year we would have to bust out concrete in someone's apartment to locate and fix a leak. This usually took 2-3 guys about 2 days of jackhammering and plumbing. When we were done, we would put foam insulation around any exposed pipe and backfill with sand.
 
Thanks, guys. Around here (or at least when my house was built) they would put a sleeve around the pipe only where it comes up out of the slab.
 
hole

A 12# sledgehammer will make the initial hole and once you have that it can be enlarged very easily. Any mechanical chisel or drill can penetrate too far when it breaks through, and that would damage the tubing.
 
Just take is slow and carefully...
That is the main thing....
....
MPM - in this pic... what size is the vent line off the WC?
In AZ it has to be min 2" and all drainage fittings below flood rim...
As well - we are not allowed to use fernco's above grade....
 

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Here, flat vents are allowed in closets, minimum diameter 1-1/2" (wet vents 2").
Fernco's are prohibited on any plumbing...must have SS sleeves.
 
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