View Full Version : Tub size 14.5 or 16?

duct tape pro
05-21-2007, 03:46 PM
How does one measure the size of your previous tub to decide which tub will fit best?

I would guess it would be a measure from drain centre to the stud maybe?

Also, I'm currently pulling out the existing tub with a couple of problems.

1. I tried unscrewing the tub drain and it won't budge. We did have a fibreglass repair their a long time ago from a chip. Do I just need a bigger hammer or can it be something other than a screw from the top type of drain?
(e.g. reverse thread or just slides in perhaps?)

Any tips on pulling tub out is appreciated too.

Thx in adv.


duct tape pro
05-22-2007, 07:25 PM
Got the chrome drain thing to break loose with a pair of screwdrivers and tried to tighten first to get seal to crack loose a bit.

Anyways, if anybody can tell me more about the different tub dimensions that's still appreciated. I'm getting closer to being able to take that measurement!! Whoo-Hoo!


05-22-2007, 07:27 PM
There are various measurements. If you can find one that has the same distance from the rear wall to the center of the drain it may make your life easier, assuming it is also the proper distance from the wall, usually about 1 1/2", at the drain end.

05-22-2007, 08:22 PM
It may be easier to measure from the outside to the middle of the drain. Take that measurement and double it. 30x60 is a common size, but 32, 34, and larger widths can be bought. In length, they are usually in 6" increments. The tub size is measured from flange to flange if it is an inset one, and from outer edge to outer edge if it is a drop in. After you put up the walls, the visible dimmensions are smaller unless it is a drop-in.

duct tape pro
05-23-2007, 05:27 AM
Thx guys.

hj: So the measurements for the existing drain should be 1.5" in from wall where taps are, and from studs to centre drain is my tub measurement. I'll check that out.

jadnashua: so a 14.5 would be 30" tub and 16 is a 32 I guess then.

I got tub knocked loose last night and discovered how the double threaded (inside/outside) for the faucet was setup. Interesting to learn these things.
Haven't hauled tub out of space yet as I've got no where to put it.

My house was built during a economic boom in our area 30 yrs ago and no fixtures in our neighbourhood has turn off valves in the line. So next step is going to be to turn off house water and install these at the taps for sink and tub.

Sink will be a screw in place with teflon tape thing, but the tub will need me to figure out how to solder properly. Will also need soldering skillset to get supply line up for shower. (existing had been flex hose sticking out side of tub tap, with nozzle hanging on the wall.)

I bought a little Oatey kit that's got solder & #95 flux with a little tin brush. I also saw a little bottle that said #5 flux that looked good too. Is there really 95 different fluxes for plumbing?

Which is best for my application of re-working a 30 yr old bathroom??

Any tips for soldering techniques? I was thinking of buying a piece of practice pipe so that if I screw up our house isn't without water for days til I figure out the right way.:eek:

05-23-2007, 06:33 AM
Three cardinal rules: clean the fittings and pipe well (special wire brush or cloth), flux both, and heat the fitting until solder flows. Keep the solder out of the flame. Basically, once the fitting and pipe are hot enough, you can remove the flame. You can add a fourth, make sure it is dry, water and steam will give you great hassles and likely a bad joint if you can get it hot enough to melt the solder. And, last, once you finish, either wipe the joint carefully with a cloth while still liquid and/or clean off any excess flux after it cools. Don't try to move it after you've completed until it cools.

You want the pipe to be cut off cleanly, and if you used a tubing cutter, you also want to use the reamer that is usually part of it to reform the end so it is straight (the cutter, especially when it gets dull, will make a lip).

duct tape pro
05-23-2007, 09:22 AM
Thx for the cardinal rules. I think I'll try them on a piece of pipe in the garage before I go *live* in my bathroom.

I bought a brass craft mini tube cutter and it says on pkg to use the reamer also. Now in looking at this thing, it's obvious about the cutting part, but not at all obvious about how to use this little thing as a reamer.
Pictures on the bag only show it cutting also.
I'll see if I can figure that part out.

I"m sure I'll have more Q's as the days roll by. This room has got to be functional by July 1 when visitors arrive.:eek:

I know I'm gonna have a subfloor Q regarding cement board, but that's later.

Thx again

duct tape pro
05-26-2007, 06:25 AM
OK, looks like this tube cutter can't ream?:confused: Guess I'll buy a reamer.
(if anybody knows how this can ream, please let me know. (pix attached)).

Think I can empty bathroom out today.

I'm planning to line tub walls with cement board (1/2") for the first 4' up, then greenboard for the rest of the height.

Just wondering is this the same cement board you would use as subfloor or something different?

I've seen on TV they now use cement board for floors rather than wood. I'm guessing that's because of woodrot, etc.

Thx in adv. for any help on my two questions.



05-26-2007, 07:51 AM
CBU (cement board) does not have much structural strength, but people normally use 1/2" on a wall because it makes it come out more even with the typical 1/2" drywall.

You should run the cbu up above the showerhead...that is considered the wet area of a shower. You can use regular drywall above it, no need for the greenboard. Greenboard really doesn't buy you much of anything and is no longer in the national codes. Some locales may still require it, but they are behind the times as testing has shown it is a waste.

CBU on the floor is not for strength, it is to decouple the potential movement of the wood floor to the tile. With tile, movement is bad - breaks grout and tiles.

There is a lot of science to building a structure that will support tile for a long life. There is the deflection along the joists, between the joists, and then proper decoupling and installation.

Because the cbu doesn't add any strength to a floor, 1/4" stuff is often used so you don't raise the floor height more than necessary, and is more than enough. If you need more strength, add more plywood. If your subfloor has planks, it needs a layer of ply on top before you add the cbu, at least 1/2" thick, with both faces grade C or better, and having exterior rated glue. To get good, fast (normally) info on tiling, check out www.johnbridge.com.

duct tape pro
05-26-2007, 09:29 AM
Thx, very helpful indeed.



duct tape pro
05-27-2007, 05:06 PM
Hi again,

Got tub out, toilet, vanity, everything except the lino...

Measure the distance from the stud to centre of the drain.
It's 15.25"

So, how the heck do you make a 14.5 or 16" tub fit in that space so I can utilize existing drain system?

Any suggestions?

Also, my studs aren't 100% vertical. Any idea on how to shim them or something so I get rectangular tiles on the wall rather than an angle?

Thx in adv. as always.



05-27-2007, 08:18 PM
Often the trap can be rotated a little..

You can rip some shims but sometimes, it is just easier to scab (attach) another stud to the side of the ones already there. They don't have to run the full height...a little construciton adhesive and a few screws are easier than trying to nail them unless you have a nailgun.

duct tape pro
05-28-2007, 05:29 AM
Thx, that tip makes it easy. Pipe is nudged up by a beam so it'll only nudge in one direction!;)

I was just looking at the supply line shower tap directions and it uses threaded pipe for the shower and taps. I went and looked at old tap and it had a different kind of pipe for the tap which was thicker than regular copper.
Same stuff for shower supply line?
(I don't know as old system just had flexihose coming out the side of tap as external line to hook on wall.)

Thx again.


PS photo attached. There's no vapour barrier for the interior walls here. Is that OK or did someone do something wrong? Orig piece was a 1 piece tub/surround all together.

05-28-2007, 01:22 PM
A one-piece tub surround is basically its own vapor barrier. If you are going to tile, you want a vapor barrier on all of the walls.

Valves today with female threaded joints often have the inside bored out and can act like a fitting - you can solder pipe inside of the fitting instead of using a threaded fitting on the outside.

duct tape pro
06-02-2007, 09:30 AM
Ignore, I've gone to check out toilet section where this question should be.