Can someone check my layout?

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mrmedic

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This is a layout of a DWV re-plumb job on my beach house that I am in the process of and I was wondering if it looked OK. I have all lines running horizontal at a 1/4" slope. The 2" washer line has a U-trap and a sani-t going into the 2" vent, then it drops to a sweep 90 to a 2x2x1 1/2 combo for tub into a 3x3x2 sani-t under the toilet then drops to 90 going towards combo on other 3" line. Both toilets have a 3x3x2 Sani-T under the flange. That is the way that the factory had it before. This is a modular home on a block foundation. Any questions Please ask.

Thanks,

Ron
layoutplumbing.jpg
 

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FloridaOrange

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What state are you in. In Florida the line going to the washer must be a 3" up to the tee, then 2" trap and 2" vent. Also in Florida you cannot pick up non-bathroom fixtures while wet venting the bathroom. The other stuff looks legal for this area.

I would also think twice about coming up in the side wall for your half bath. Your trap will take up just about all the room on the left side of the vanity. If you pick it up from behind you should end up with more useable space.
 

mrmedic

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FloridaOrange, I am located in Delaware. The washer stand pipe for all that I have found is always 2" in all the houses that I have done other work in,(construction) Maybe someone will chime in with that answer. A 3" will not fit in the wall there. Also the original was put together the same way except for where the 1 1/2" tub drain connects. The half bath vanity is the only part that I am not touching. It was put in that way from the factory when the house was built. I know it is a pain and I was thinking of changing it by running a drain in the back of the vanity and taking the vent up into the attic and going over to the old vent where it go's thru the roof But there is a heat duct right under that wall and the drain would have to go back into a closet to be able to go down to connect to the 3" drain. I did change that in the main bath. That one used to go out the right hand side also but I only had to put in a 90 for that one to be moved. The half bath would need two 90's to be able to come back over to where the drain could go down thru the wall. I think that would be a complete 180 and would not be right.
Thanks for checking out my project.

Ron
 

FloridaOrange

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I'm not versed in Delaware code, hopefully someone will chime in. From what I see everything will work just fine. The 3" for the washer and the wet vent issue are relatively new code issues down here anyway.

From your description of the lav in the half bath I would leave it as is too. Good luck.
 

Geniescience

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looks good.

but I'm not a plumber. One thing i am not sure about is whether it is better to use a Wye to connect just downstream of the toilets instead of reusing the San-T's (under the toilet flanges) that were there before.

you have room to re-vent for both toilets, in the walls.

David
 

FloridaOrange

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RUGGED said:
Wet venting is outlawed in my state and with good reason. It is connect the dot plumbing or airplane plumbing. It promotes one fixture failing and causing another to do the same.

We don't have many "wet vent" failures down here. In the 20+ years I've been down here I've never had issues with a water closet not flushing correctly because of a clog in the lavatory. Wet venting is common and correct for this area even if it's not in your area. ;) Improper order of fixtures or undersizing vents will cause a problem of course but any plumbing that is installed or designed incorrectly will have issues.
Additionally, our plumbing systems have to run at a much higher invert elevation. If we dig too deep we're in water.
And regarding your one fixture failing comment, have you ever used circuit or battery vents? I'm not trying to start a flame war, I really want to know. My experience is strictly limited to Florida. I was taught design by a master plumber originally from OK.
 
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mrmedic

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Here is an updated picture with the vent for the toilet separate from the washer and tub drain. (below is close up) Also this is how I am thinking of doing the separate vents for toilet and Tub/Washer.(close up on right) All pipes in box are in the wall and are vertical. The rest of the pipe run horizontal. Does this look OK. I don't think I can get around using the Sani-T's below the closet flange. There is ductwork in the way of adding other vent in other walls.

Thanks,
Ron

layoutplumbing3.jpg

layoutplumbing4.jpg Washing Mach Pipes.jpg
 

Plumb or Die

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Wet vent

Take a 3x2 Wye off the 3" line for the W/C and head to the lav with it. Take a 2" wye off that line and head to the tub with it. Now you've wet vented the W/C and tub through the lav. Do a seperate 3x2 wye off the main for the washing machine. The way I see your layout, you'll have suds issues with the other fixtures.
No wet venting in Kentucky? Well, least you can marry your cousin there.
 

Dunbar Plumbing

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FloridaOrange said:
We don't have many "wet vent" failures down here. In the 20+ years I've been down here I've never had issues with a water closet not flushing correctly because of a clog in the lavatory. Wet venting is common and correct for this area even if it's not in your area. ;) Improper order of fixtures or undersizing vents will cause a problem of course but any plumbing that is installed or designed incorrectly will have issues.
Additionally, our plumbing systems have to run at a much higher invert elevation. If we dig too deep we're in water.
And regarding your one fixture failing comment, have you ever used circuit or battery vents? I'm not trying to start a flame war, I really want to know. My experience is strictly limited to Florida. I was taught design by a master plumber originally from OK.



I'll just tell you my history a little with wet vents I've dealt with on the service side of the plumbing in KY and Ohio. And if it is combination waste and vent, it's worse.

On the older buildings where a vent was used as a pathway for the venting of another fixture, at some point that inner diameter can close up, especially galvanized on a lavatory. No two ways around that. Now you have a smaller diameter opening serving two or three fixtures, not one.

When I took my Ohio journeyman's license, I plumbed the isometric drawing to Kentucky codes because I already knew that KY supercedes Ohio codes. The head guy looked at the drawing, shook his head that all that venting isn't necessary but it'll pass.

Short of marrying my cousin, it's nice to know that codes in KY are pretty strict and are enforced under the guidelines of UPC heavily.

When I was a union service plumber in Ohio, that is a drain cleaner's heaven over there for the older homes. Wet venting is to blame. I've been in many discussions with Ohio plumbers trying to figure out why connect the dot plumbing serves such a tremendous benefit over standard "every fixture must have its own drain AND vent"..........all they could come up with is less material cost and less work.

To me that doesn't equate to logical thinking in the game of cards. On a job over at Kahn's they do not vent their fixtures; all of it is standpiped and their thinking is when the drain clogs, it's isolated and you know where the problem lies. WTF? Never mind the gurgling and the slow drains half the time.

The good thing is, in Ohio, they are adhering in the new construction of plumbing to follow the code provisions similar to Ky's and that greatly reduces that issue of relying on a vent pipe that has waste matter travelling through, expecting it NOT to compromise the smooth flow-through that Ky codes offer, along with many others across the United States.

We all know that when a lav drain clogs, and you either unclog it by chemicals or snake.....if that waste matter is hardened up beyond what a cable will completely remove, you'll have another fixture if wet vented compromised heavily by that situation, and no one can see it.

I prefer the codes I was taught as it usually follows most states and is considered the more forgiving plumbing system to run error-free.

The latter has provided me with much work; can't pump blood through a clogged artery.

But honestly, I would like to hear a better answer than less materials, less labor to install. A system with individual vents is code in many states for a reason.
 

mrmedic

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Thanks Plumb, Would this be OK? It was my original set up with a twist. I have a 3x3x2 Sani-T under W/C with a 2" combo going to vent and to tub. And now I changed to a 3x3x2 wye on the main and connected this to the washer pipes. The Sani-T was how they had it hooked up before. Wouldn't I get better venting to W/C with the Sani-T then if I put another wye in the 3" below? I really appreciate all the help. I just want to do it rite.

Ron
Washing Mach Pipes2.jpg
 

Jwray

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software??

Ron,

What software did you use to create your layout?

I'm not sure if the plumbing will work or not, but the graphic looks professional.
 

mrmedic

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The main building outline was made up in Chief Architect. I use it sometimes for my work. But the plumbing lines where just drawn on a .JPG picture of the file in Macromedia Fireworks 8.

Ron
 
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