View Full Version : Installing a stop valve

04-01-2007, 04:24 PM
I'm installing a new toilet and need to install the stop valve between the supply and the tank. This is a new supply line that hasn't been cut yet. I just want to make sure I understand how to install the stop.

Cut the copper pipe leaving enough room for the escutcheon and stop valve
Slide the escutcheon, nut and ferrule over the pipe.
Cover the pipe with some plumber's tape or pipe cement
Slide stop valve on and tighten nut

I'm unsure of the connection with the supply - is it really not going to leak? Seems sketchy to me, like there ought to be more....


04-01-2007, 05:50 PM
Actually, there's less......

Based on step 4, I'm figuring you're using a compression (mounting to copper pipe) stop. There is no dope or tape used between the pipe and compression fitting. Clean metal to clean metal.

Be sure to get a stop with the right size outlet to accept the braided stainlees flex connection to the toilet.

04-01-2007, 06:31 PM
And, make sure you haved enough sticking out of the wall! Make sure that the cut end of that pipe is nice and square with no nicks or burrs.

04-02-2007, 08:06 PM
Just say no to dope (and tape), leave enough pipe and don't overtighten - got it!


Re: the flange - I didn't tile right up around the hole for the drain pipe so I have to fill it in to get the flange to sit flush with the floor. The difference is 7/16". I have a piece of 1/4 ply that leaves me a hair higher than the floor. I had a bunch of Ditra left from my tile job and three layers of that leaves me a hair lower than the floor. I'm wondering which way to err. I don't want the bowl to have any chance of rocking...

04-02-2007, 08:44 PM
Toilets are designed to fit on a flange that is mounted on TOP of the finished floor. Ideally, you would have tiled under it so you'd have a nice firm flat place to anchor it. As long as it doesn't sit more than the thickness of the flange above the finished floor, you should be fine.