Adding cleanout to cast

Don Metzinger

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What is the best way to add a cleanout to a cast drain line. Rooter guy said there was a way to "lead on a cleanout inside". He said an access just outside the foundation would be the easiest. Is there a clamp on fitting that can be used or do you have to cut the cast line and insert a wye of some kind? - Don
 
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You have to install a "Y of some kind" and preferably two, one to do the outside pipe and the other for the inside pipe in case it ever becomes obstructed.
 
All of the clogs are out side the house due to tree roots. The line passes through the basement wall about 3 ft below the ground. So the process would be digging down to the line and installing a wye. Could that be done by cutting a small section out of the line and then installing an abs wye with fernco couplers on each side? Any info would be helpful. Thanks - Don
 
don metzinger said:
digging down to the line and installing a wye. Could that be done by cutting a small section out of the line and then installing an abs wye with fernco couplers on each side?
While that would work and be code legal (at least here), I would suggest using banded couplings - the ones approved for underground use (ie "Husky" style bands) as they will assist in keeping the pipes aligned...
As this cleanout is goung to be used frequently, any misalignment could prove to be a problem....
 
Yay - 2 cleanouts!

I agree with HJ about installing 2 clean-outs, one going each way.

I am a "rooter-man" and I've found a few outside clean-outs that sweep away from the house and the clog is between the house and the clean-out.
Better safe than sorry. (Normally, if you don't have a clean-out access in the house, the "rooter-man" has to remove your toilet to run his sewer snake from there to your sewer. Not only does it cost more, your pipes inside your house can be severely damaged if they are already deteriorated.)

You already have a root problem, so here's a tip. When you have your sewer line cleaned out (with a sewer snake), the roots will keep growing back (obviously, sorry). Treat your sewer line with COPPER SULPHATE every 3 months for the first year, then every 6 months. (You may have to stick with every 3 months if you have a LOT of roots.) It will kill the roots without killing the trees.
This is not a permanent fix - the only permanent fix is replacing your sewer line.

NOTE: Copper Sulphate - do not buy the liquid, it will do you NO good. Do not buy the small powder-like crystals, they will float away and do you NO good. You want the crystals that are dime-sized to quarter-sized. (Flush a cup at a time down the toilet to avoid clogging it, 2 cups is a full application. For LOTS of roots, 4 cups is a full application for the first 6 months.)

"And away go troubles down the drain" tm
 
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That is how most city's tie into there existing sewers mains when a new sewer tap is added to the line.

a very similar process is used in taping into water lines that are under pressure for the water tap going into a house from city mains.

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IN the process the line is intact and will not create a sag point in the line, as can happen when cutting the line and adding a section of (many times using other materials in the process),

but using saddles to tie in to a IN GROUND line is acceptable in locations that I know of, check with your local officials if in doubt.

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it is best to grind smooth any burs left by drilling, the holes and creating the hole, in the cast iron,
A hole saw can be used,
but when installing a Wye the hole is more oval than round, and jsut using a Tee, makes a hard corner to get around with a sewer snake.

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If you dont like the idea don't use it.
 
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