ENOUGH wax?

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DukePukem

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I recently replaced a kohler toilet that I have been having problems with ever since I had the tile replaced in my bathroom. It always seems to smell like pee in the bathroom. Originally, the guys re-installing the toilet did it incorrectly and it leaked from around where the toilet sits on the tile. I had to get roto-rooter to come out and charge me lots of $$ to fix it. It quit leaking but the smell still lingered. When the toilet started to fail (water was running all the time), I decided to replace this 20 year old toilet with a new Kohler Memoirs. I pulled up the old toilet and noticed that the wax ring was perfectly in tact. (it was one that has a flange that fits into the waste pipe.) There was very little to scrape off the waste pipe. I noticed that the new tile floor sat about 1/4 inch or so above the closet flange. I put the new wax ring (same kind as was on before) on the toilet and placed the toilet over the waste pipe and T-bolts (new). I didn't notice any resistance from the wax at all but still applied pressure and attached the bolts. (the toilet does not rock, move or leak). I notice the pee smell still there, I am not sure if it is from before or continuing but if the wax is just helping funnel the waste down the drain and there is no "smush" of wax, would that cause a smell? should I use 2 wax rings to be sure? not sure what to do. Thanks!!
 

Gary Swart

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Those wax rings with the plastic horns often cause problems. When you add in the fact that the flange is 1/4" too low, that could account for the lack of seal. I would use a ring without the plastic tip and find one that is thicker than the standard. I don't think 2 rings would be necessary.
 

Jadnashua

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There should be some resistance as you set the toilet indicating that you are compressing and forming the wax to make a full seal. You need a thicker wax ring, a flange extender, or a waxless seal. You might be smelling sewer gasses, or, if the toilet was not caulked, the result of an occasional miss that ran under the lip.

While many people get by with an incorrectly installed flange, it is (by design) supposed to be anchored on TOP of the finished floor and anchored securely to the subfloor with no gap between it and the floor.
 
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