View Full Version : cleaning old solder
foghat35
03-13-2007, 07:20 AM
The stub out for a stop valve I'm replacing is completely covered with solder. Blobs of solder everywhere for the full 3" of pipe. I'm putting on a compression valve so I have to get all this solder off. I plan on heating and wiping with a rag. Is there anything else you guys do to clean the pipe in situations like this?
heat it up, wipe with rag then you could hit it with some sand cloth.
Randyj
03-13-2007, 08:30 PM
what coz said...heat up again and wipe with wet rag usually gets it really clean.
A wet rag will congeal the solder immediately. Use a dry rag after the solder becomes molten. No need to sand it if you wipe it properly.
Randyj
03-13-2007, 08:34 PM
not if you've already got the solder wiped off with dry rag......been there done that, got the t-shirt, got the badge, got the tennis shoes to boot....
mikept
02-19-2008, 04:25 PM
What if the solder isnt a full blob but a slight build up. Does the outside diameter of the pipe have to be perfectly round for a compression stop to work?
Rather not torch if i dont have to torch.
Mikey
02-20-2008, 04:03 AM
Does the outside diameter of the pipe have to be perfectly round for a compression stop to work?
I'd bet no, but you have a great opportunity to experiment. I doubt you could even get the ferrule on the out-of-round piece.
Rather not torch if i dont have to torch.
That's the fun part. Use a heat shield to prevent burning the house down. I made one out of an old 29oz fruit can that I've been using for years. I just reworked a bunch of copper yesterday and quickly found that the torch is the only tool worth using to clean up the 30-year-old globs and such. Solder is tough stuff -- much too hard to sand. Once it's melted, you can either wipe it or blow it off the work.
Slight buildup or blobs, it doesn't matter. It has to be removed or the valve will not go on, much less tighten and seal properly.
mikept
02-20-2008, 07:52 AM
I think theres a clean spot between the buildup and blob:)
How much pipe do i need for a compression fitting?
If you have too much buildup, the nut will not go on. Generally, if the nut goes on, the ferrule will go on.
You need to bottom out the pipe in the socket of the stop.
mikept
02-20-2008, 02:17 PM
generally how many inches of pipe will i need to bottom it out?
frenchie
02-20-2008, 09:45 PM
Dude - just torch it, already.
Heat and wipe the pipe, see if the comp nut and ferrule slide on, if not sand a little till it fits, install comp nut then ferrule then valve, push valve all the way on to pipe and hold it in, place 1-2 drops of oil on threads, hold back valve with channel locks, tighten nut by hand then with anothe pair of channel locks tighten the nut, CAUTION don't under or over tighten the nut.
mikept
02-21-2008, 07:41 AM
I believe in my case i have enough lenth to cut sweat wipe and install a compression stop.
But if the stub was too short would i unsweat the stop instead of cutting it off, or would i have to open the wall and replace the stub? *just curious*
jadnashua
02-21-2008, 09:22 AM
My guess is that you need a little over 1/2" or so and probably less than 3/4" of stub sticking out of the wall to install a compression stop. Now, if you want a bezel on the wall, you need maybe 1/2" more. This could vary depending on the brand chosen. You'd have to measure to be sure, or view the specific installation instructions.
mikept
03-04-2008, 01:45 AM
Heated with my new bernzomatic ts8000 torch, Wiped the solder cut the pipe and installed new compression stops Quite easy and No Leaks!!! Not to hard to do...
Where does the compression seal form? the very end tip of the pipe or the OD of the pipe?
Im surprised that the metal seals together leak free.
When i was snaking the lav drain i checked the stops and they were broken, the hotwater didnt close and the cold dripped for a while after turning. When changing the stops i noticed the rusted through lav hanger bracket was 1/3 missing.
Mikey
03-04-2008, 04:06 AM
The compression seal is formed when the ferrule is squeezed by the tightening of the compression nut. Try taking one off and you'll see...
Mikey
03-04-2008, 04:09 AM
CAUTION don't under or over tighten the nut.
I guess it's easy to see if you've under-tightened the nut, but never thought it was possible to over-tighten it. This is another Goldilocks thing -- it has to be "just right"?
mikept
03-04-2008, 04:43 AM
The compression seal is formed when the ferrule is squeezed by the tightening of the compression nut. Try taking one off and you'll see...
I know when the seal was formed, im curious about where it seals to the copper, the cut end or the sides of the tube.
It seals at both sides of the ferrule/ring to the outside of the copper. The end of the tubing just keeps it straight in the fitting or valve.
mikept
03-04-2008, 06:05 AM
If i took a wrench and rotated the stop to a different direction would it leak?
patrick88
03-04-2008, 01:13 PM
If i took a wrench and rotated the stop to a different direction would it leak?
It might.
You would be better off not messing with the thing now that you got the pipe cleaned and the new valve on.
Mikey
03-04-2008, 02:05 PM
If i took a wrench and rotated the stop to a different direction would it leak?
If you rotated it that way ("took a wrench and..."), it probably would. If you turned the water off, loosened the compression nut, rotated the valve, and retightened the compression nut, it should be OK.
mikept
03-04-2008, 02:33 PM
After i torqued the nut 3/8 turns past finger tight, i noticed the stop was angled past vertical so i turned it just a bit with my wrench. I suppose if i had turned it more it would have leaked after.
mikept
03-07-2008, 02:21 AM
OH i just found out i did it all the hard way:confused:
http://www.brasscraft.com/PDF/Brass%20Craft%20-%20Solution%20for%20Missing%20or%20Seized%20Stops% 20Flier.pdf
I could have "…or retrofit a seized stop" ...
EDIT: The old escutcheon was rusty too so i would have had to cover it over with a new split escutcheon.