New Ceramic Tile/ old Toilet Flange

Hello,
First timer! I need some help on a project my Wife and i working on?!
We live in a second story condo and we are having Ceramic tile put in our master bed/bathrooms, the subfloor is 1" thick concrete on plywood. Thus far we've removed the carpet and base boards in the bedroom and vinyl flooring in the bathroom. 1st. is it a must that we raise the toilet flange to meet the new floor height when the new creamic flooring is put in, or is it possible to use a extended wax ring if such a beast exists? 2nd. we removed the tub... no longer require it's services, need the space for storge. The 1"thick concrete subfloor wasn't poured under the tub during construction, should we pour concrete in that space or will Fiberrock or concrete board do just fine before the Tilers show up next week? Thanks

Your condo construction sounds very similar to mine here in San Diego.

Replaceing the toilet flange would involve a lot of work because of the floor situation. An inch is too much to make up with wax. Get about 4 spacers, 1/4" thick. Stack them up, using silicone under the first one and in between the others. Use long toilet flange T bolts, and nut them in place. This secures the bolt is self, and also secures the extenders. Now use a Fluidmaster No-Wax toilet gasket. You can find all these items at a good plumbing store, and probably also a box store.


The lite-weight concrete subflooring is part of the fire code, so you do need to do something when removing the tub. I would think that two layers of backer board would be OK, but you need to get your inspector to sign off on this. Probably when you submit plans for the permit, they will comment on the adequacy of this.


Have you thought out the consequences of removing the tub in terms of resale value? Are you replaceing it with a shower, or nothing?

Thanks Jimbo,
Were keeping the stand alone shower entact. I didn't make myself clear about the toilet. the flange is on the surface of the concrete when the tile gose in it will probablly be about 1/2" low. Could we get by with a larger wax ring? Thanks

The toilet will reset easily with just one, or maybe 2 at most of the PVC spacers. Got to have the longer bolts, and if posible set the bolts to grab the original flange.

pour concrete

hi flyfishbum.

your requests are clear, but still need more clarity.

About the toilet flange, you are starting to get clear.

About the concrete: you need to explain more just in case there are going to be issues with levels and with expansion cracks.

My assessment is that a pour is best. Concrete board is good for other situations, not yours.

David

Thanks Brian,
I'm not hip to spacers, are they just like the flange in design with holes for the longer bolts?

Thanks David for the reply.

The Toilet Flange in our bathroom that is in 1" thick crete subfloor will be about 1/4" to 1/2" below the finished tile work I'm thinking. Would you think just some spacers and longer bolts will do the trick, then use standard wax ring or forget the spacers and a jumbo/ 40 to 50% larger wax ring will be just fine? The creteless void left by the removal of our tub is 36 sq. ft. due to the 1' thick crete sub floor breaking up during the removal. expansion might be an issue? the builders cut 1' x 6'" hole in the plywood to access the drain install for the tub. thats why i was thinking backer board or something?

Scott

call the cement manufacturer

expansion was a concern w.r.t the concrete, not the plywood.

After you patch the plywood, you have to fill the space with a cement product that is the right thing to match up with the existing cement product you have.

Ideally, it will stick ("Glue") itself to the existing stuff, and have all the same properties, so it will become as one, and not separate and cause a little crack there in your tiles. That's easier said than done.

Check out the Noble company anti-fracture membranes, thin patches you lay across the seam where the two plates meet.

David

p.s. a hundred other people can tell you what to do with the toilet flange. Not me.

Thanks David for all the help!