compression vs sweat

fast pasquale

fast pasquale

hardwood flooring contractor
Messages
52
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
cleveland, ohio
ive installed a bunch of shut off valves this week most were on toilets and used the "speedy stop"....1/4 turn.....compression fittings... no one around here carries this in a sweat connection... so i guess my ? is how much better is a sweated connection as opposed to a compression fitting... can i expect more years of service from a sweated joint????
 
I like sweat stops better than compression for reliability against the compression ring ever leaking. Compression stops can be changed quicker if necessary. I have had to tighten / change out many compression connections that began leaking but have only had to change sweat stops when the valve would not stop water flow. I can't recall any sweat on stops that started leaking at the sweat connection.
 
I think all stops should be replaced at least every 25 years.
Not that homeowners want them replaced, but they do get old.

If they are compression stops, I can change them fairly quickly.
I also don't worry about starting fires under their cabinets.
 
In my humble experience and opinion, compression stops are etremely reliable. If installed correctly so that they do not leak, I don't remember ever seeing one leak later on ( at the compression fitting). The old "Bob-stop" type of course had issues with the stem packing, and the stem washer. Compression valves are easier to install, and change out IF they were not overtightened at first install.
 
i always thought you had to hack the pipe off at the ferroule when replacing compression...you're still losing pipe... am i missing something???
 
sleeve_puller_2.jpg


That's what sleeve pullers are for.
 
I don't like sleeve pullers..


I own one.


when I can't wiggle the nut and fheral off it's saved me more than once.


Sweat stops? I've never used one.... I think I'd like them more than the other.... but only minor problems with the other. out of 500 i've had 3 leak... crome plating came off.... all the same brand, same house, same day....

The Sleeve pullers can sometimes flare the copper.... but your in a no win situation at that point anyways.... do what you can and don't let it win.


most always you can pull the stop off, leave the nut on and put a new stop on the old nut... no problems.

Always put a 1/4 turn stop on if possable.

good luck

dances-with-pumps
 
I keep my dremel with a cutoff wheel in my tool box just in case I run into silly little things like that which will not come off. I'd be afraid to use the sleeve puller for fear of flaring the copper.
 
1 thing I don't like about 1/4 turn stops.

A few times while working under sinks with the stops off and faucet and connectors out, I have bumped the valves and turned them on.

Not fun.
 
No, I can bump a 3 turn stop and the water won't turn on. With the 1/4 turn all I have to do is bump the handle a little and it turns on.
Yes it is "user error". I have not achieved perfection yet.
 
Last edited:
To avoid the flaring, it looks like there's enough room to put a cut down coupling (with full circumference stop) in there before the tool.

I just puchased quarter turn replacements for inside a vanity I may be replacing in a few years, and decided to sweat on male adapters and screw on the stops, so they'd be easier to R&R when installing the new vanity. The male adapters will require a smaller hole, and also sweat faster than the valves.

sleeve_puller_1.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
Sweat 1/8 nominal directly to 1/4 nominal
Replies
0
Views
179
JoshATX
J
W
Pressure testing hydronic heating line
Replies
0
Views
1K
wworden
W
adiner
Removing and replacing an in-line ball valve
Replies
0
Views
5K
adiner
adiner
O
New Fridge water line
Replies
0
Views
535
ohredwood
O
flyguy
Rebuilding Brasscraft Shutoff Valve
Replies
1
Views
1K
Breplum
Breplum
Back
Top