Solder and Flux question

I have seen a lot of people on this forum prefer oatey #95 flux. Can this flux be used with Taramet Sterling solder? I didn't know if the solder they added to the flux would be like combining two different solders. Thanks for any responses, this forum is an awesome wealth of plumbing info.

I believe you are speaking of tinning flux, yes.

Just make sure you are using lead-free solder....at one time you had selection on the shelf but now I believe most if not all solder is lead free to keep the consumer from accidentally grabbing the lead based.

The flux you use has no bearing on the solder. If you could combine 100 different solders it would work. You just wouldn't know the melting temp.

Though manufacturers still make and people still use petroleum based fluxes, they've been proscribed by all the model codes for years. How about using Oatey H-20-5® Water Paste Flux?

I have tried som of the H20 fluxes but have never found any to work well.

Most PLUMBING solder is lead free or has something like .2% or less... I found some 50/50 in Hobby Lobby which is used for leading stained glass... it was much cheaper than plumbing solder. I do know that 50/50 solder is used alot in electronics or at least it was 20 years ago... that might have changed too. It is much softer. As for fluxes... I like all of the Oatey fluxes I've used. I used some NoKorode on a job and it worked as good if not better. The water based solder...that blue paste looking stuff just didn't seem to do as well but I liked the fact that it cleaned off my hands much better and seemed to have less caustic fumes.

I use Coppermate flux with good results...
http://www.canfieldmetals.com/copper_mate_flux.htm

Wow, up here in NY I can't even find any water base fluxes in any of the Home Depot's . I did have the opportunity to try Sterling's water based flux....I would love to see someone solder using that with Mapp gas in person, I fried it in seconds with propane. Nokarode was a nice flux but Oatey's #5 seems to have a very easy learning curve. Taramet Sterling solder also gives the rookies a pro looking joint as it flows and wipes very well without over heating the joint. I just have never tried Oatey's #95.

After testing a few brands of water soluable paste, we've switched to NOKORODE® Aqua Flux™, one of the very few paste fluxes available that meets ASTM B-813 standards requiring that fluxes be water "washable" and can be flushed from the piping system to prevent corrosion.
It works and we're in compliance.

In case you wonder what the difference is.... I got this from Oatey.com... I don't have a clue what applications I would need 95 for...except that it says it's for larger diameter copper pipe. I might would choose 95 for silver solder...underground applications.

No. 5 Paste Flux

Cleans and fluxes at the same time.

Effective on all metals except aluminum, magnesium and stainless steel.

100% lead free.

Blended to clean surface oxidation.

No. 95 Tinning Flux

Formulated with the same high quality as No. 5. However, patented Oatey silver solder powder is added to pre-tin the copper pipe.

Flux can never burn out.

100% lead free.

Excellent for large diameter copper.

Does not turn copper green.

Randy,
The Oatey no 95 won't work with silver solder/ brazing. The information on Oateys website says it has a temperature range of 400-700º. IIRC silver solder requires over 1000

Solder and flux advice

I'm a weekend warrior with plumbing around the house and helping friend out. Getting better every time at sweating copper.

I just ran out of solder and I'm not liking the flux I have. I'm looking for suggestions on what brand/part number to use for both. Just general copper fittings and pipe for around the house.

I have been using Oatey Safe-Flo solder. Seems to work fine. Any better options?

I have been using Oatey #95 tinning flux. I don't like it because it seems much harder than necessary. This makes it hard to get out of the tin with a brush. Works ok once it's applied but I'd prefer an easier application.

Just using Oatey as an example, what's the difference between their paste flux and their tinning flux? Different purposes? Again, any suggestions on flux?

Maybe what I'm using is just fine but I prefer to work with the best when possible.

Also, what works for a brush? I've been using acid brushes but I seem to melt them quickly if I go back over a joint with flux to clean it up a bit.

Thanks.

The tinning flux has powdered solder in it, I think its a great product.

I use cheap, childrens paint brushes for my flux brushes. Works a treat.

http://www.copper.org/

We use a flux called NO CORRODE, it seems to work good. I sure hope you are reaming the tubing after it has been cut. this IS very important! Home depot sells a yellow plastic handled reaming tool for about six bucks. After you cut a piece of pipe with a tubing cutter a sharp ridge will be at the end inside. You can cut your finger on it. It also causes a phenomenon called hydraulic jump. That's what the copper association called it when they came to Purdue for a seminar years ago. Water flowing over this ridge if not removed causes the water to swirl like an undertow in a river and it will actually eat through the pipe. It will look like a backward horseshoe print inside the pipe.

Solder is engineered to be heated only once. It will take more heat to unsolder a joint. I have had joints refuse to break loose even with a turbo torch and mapp gas and putting plenty of flux on to help break it loose. I have ended up burning up the fittings.

It takes 3/4 " of solder to fill a 3/4" fitting, so on and so forth.