View Full Version : Door / Glass Block Combination
01-03-2007, 07:01 PM
Doing a reno in our master bedroom-ensuite. Right now there is an existing 48" open doorway (bearing wall) between the two rooms and I want to frame in for a glass-panel door (32"). In order to allow as much light I intend to use the ~15" extra available to install a panel of 2 x 4" width Corning glass blocks using the Provantage 1 system. I intend to hang the door on the existing wall edge and so the latch side will be on the glass block side. Couple questions...
1. Any reason that I can not anchor the Provantage perimeter channels directly to the existing (solid) drywall in the existing opening. Other side will be onto a new stud.
2. As mentioned, the door hinge side will be on the existing stud side so the latch will be on the new stud side. This new stud will not need to add additional support to the already existing header, so can I get by with just a single stud. So essentially the frame of the glass blcoks are one side existing double stud with dryawall exterior and other side a single stud to which the new door frame (latch side) is attached.
01-03-2007, 10:02 PM
bad idea to have the door latch sooclose to the blocks! you should have a double stud after jamb before the blocks. motar will crack otherwise! blocks carry no structual load. read complete instructions from O.C.
Tip mix motar real dry. KEEP cleaning blocks as you work! have ripped out many badely done jobs!
01-04-2007, 05:08 AM
although it all sounds like a plan, a lot depends on the execution. Assuming I understood the description and not sure whether i missed anything.
01-04-2007, 09:19 AM
Here are photos (attached) of the 48" doorway with the proposed studs. The frame I built is all screwed together with 3" screws and attached to wall, ceiling & floor with 3" screws. Its very solid, no play at all.
My intent is to have the door hinges on the shower side of the doorway, onto the new 2x4 assembly and the door would open into the bathroom. With the stud already very solid and the door frame well screwed to the single stud I envision absolutely no play or wobble.
I'll be using the Corning Provantage I mounting system for the glass blocks. This mortarless system includes mounting channels for outside, plastic spacers and silicone caulking. So although the glass blocks add no structural integrity, there is also no risk of mortar cracking,
01-04-2007, 10:22 AM
i saw Provantage on www.pittsburghcorning.com -- it's silicone instead of mortar (cement). Wow! Hard to believe. But i won't knock it down.
Then you put their "grout" on top. i hope the grout is a mastic, not a Portland cement product. Find out. Mastic or epoxy will flex enough, in my opinion, to be OK for this application. It's not likely to be an epoxy product.
i saw your pictures. Sounds like you'll leave it as is since you are comfortable with its solidity. Have you considered putting in a 30" door? That is plenty wide enough for a bathroom (even 24" is), and it more than doubles the rigidity of your stud since you now have the space for TWO studs that you screw together... If not, OK, you seem comfortable already. I noticed that you left the drywall; I might have removed it, so as to get more room, for more glass or more door side rigidity. Also, I might have used metal to stiffen the door jamb stud; I use a lot of metal (1/4" thick!). That's just how I do things, it's not a recommendation for you to do anything differently. A C-channel will work wonders. Even a cheap 26-gauge metal stud channel that you get for $2-$3 at a local big box store, can be added on top of the stud (wrapped around it, to be more precise) and it will increase rigidity by a huge margin.
01-04-2007, 06:51 PM
It's your project, do as you wish with the width of the door. When building or remodeling for myself I think about the fact that for now my health is good. But, there is always the possiblity that me or someone else in the house may be in a wheelchair. I try to make everything wheelchair accessible simply because it's alot easier to do now than when or if I'm in a wheelchair....so for me...no 24" bathroom doors... I try to get all doors as big as practical.
01-04-2007, 08:50 PM
As a carpenter, I've never done that, never will!
What do I know? This is my 45 th year as a tradesman:rolleyes:
01-04-2007, 09:13 PM
Thanks for the input folks.
If I remove the drywall on each side, that gives me an extra 1 inch width. I can thickness plane a 2x4 to 1 3/8" thickness and that will give me my double-stud while still allowing for the 12 1/4" required for two-width glass block panel and 34" rough for a 32" door. Or alternatively build up the single stud with ply to add 1 3/8" , which is probably more structurally sound than adding another 2x4.
01-04-2007, 09:18 PM
buy the door and get measurements before planing the 2 x 4. Sometimes you can get by with significantly less than 34".
I don't like the execution of the entire project. I have seen too many showers leak when finish materials are mixed. How do you plan to finish off that single stud, (which is more than adequate for a latch side of the door)? My shower has glass block with a rounded "fiinished edge" at the door way and the latch rail is fastened directly to it, so there is no block to drywall/stud joint to separate and leak.
01-05-2007, 07:10 AM
My shower door will be in the same location it is now, about 1 foot from the edge of the existing opening. So there is no issue regarding water around the new door being added.
01-07-2007, 10:28 AM
Latch side of door gets constant impact all It's life. to make it worse ,ther're
grouted glass blocks to receive those impacts. Might be fine, might not.
Did blocks residental and comm. years ago for about 5 years. good luck