Installing shower with no access to bottom.

I am installing a new shower where there is no access to the bottom of the shower. (house built on slab with joists that are about 6" above slab) I am wondering how I can make the drain connection from the drain stem coming off the shower to the vertical part of the trap coming below the floor? This is supposed to be glued, right.......? How do I do that when it is recommended that you turn the pipes when you are making a pvc glue joint ? How do I keep the plumbing in the floor from moving when I make this connection? There is absolutely no access to this space, and like I said you would have to be able to squeeze through a 6" space to get underneath each joist even if there were access.

I'm sort of confused here. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

TIA,
Molo

If this is a fibreglass pan, use the type of drain ( usually comes with the pan) where you have a stub stick up from the trap, then the pan goes down over it and a rubber gasket in the drain fitting seals the pipe.

So there is no glued joint? It sounds like a washing machine drain... Am I understanding this right?

TIA,
Molo

Please more info

Can anyone please explain how to accomplish a drain installation like this. I'm don't understand what Jimbo was saying.

TIA,
Molo

Unless you come up with something different you can use the PVC and glue the drain to the pipe. Just be sure you've got lots of glue as if your daddy owned the company... You will have to stabilize the pipe by putting something under it or tying it up. Also, you can leave the strainer out of the drain while assembling then use any method you find convenient or can figure out to pull the pipe from the inside up and into the shower drain bottom (e.g. piece of metal slightly longer than diameter of pipe that has off center hole to which a wire is affixed and drop the short end into the whole first so that when you pull the wire it wedges against the pipe...to get it out push down on the lower end with wire or stick...whatever works).

Have to mark centers of your fixture and rough-in the drain already trapped with a standpipe that will be centered to the drain.

I use those all brass drains with compression ferrule that makes a positive water-tight seal to the drain assembly.


Then all you have to do is cut the PVC pipe flush with the top of that ferrule so that you can snap the drain cover on.

drain

It is not like a washing machine drain, however that is connected. It is a rubber sleeve that is pressed into the annular ring beteen the pipe and drain after the shower is set. It would take a very, very, very, very good plumber to be able to glue that joint and get it right.

Shower install


Follow the pictures by clicking next, read the narratives I posted years ago on this install.

More info Please

RUGGED said:

Have to mark centers of your fixture and rough-in the drain already trapped with a standpipe that will be centered to the drain.

I use those all brass drains with compression ferrule that makes a positive water-tight seal to the drain assembly.


Then all you have to do is cut the PVC pipe flush with the top of that ferrule so that you can snap the drain cover on.

Click to expand...

Thanks Rugged,

Nice pictures. In you post you are starting to scratch the surface of my lack of confidence and experience with shower drain work.
Anyway.......... to the details; I understand that I will have to be very precise with my measurements for the drain location.

What I don't understand is;
1. How high to leave the standpipe that comes vertical out of the trap and up through the floor?
2. I am not familiar with the brass fitting you are referring to, I bought a PVC shower drain fitting that has a rubber gasket inside it that I tighten down with a metal "key" that sits into it. Is this acceptable? Is the brass that you refer to easier to use? How high does the vertical piece out of the trap have to be for these two fittings? I have to cut the piece to height before I place the shower down on the subfloor and cutting it too short would be a nightmare.

TIA,
Molo

Precise is almost an understatement. I've done quite a few of these in my days when I did almost all new construction and large basement remodels/bathroom additions. Glad to know it's all behind me as a learning experience.

Cut the standpipe piece that comes through the drain opening a few inches long; you can cut that to size when the unit is secured to the walls/sitting in mortar. I always cut it a little long.......too short and you'll be in trouble with the compression fitting not working.

I use all brass assemblies because I know that nothing is going to allow that nut to release down the road, thus causing a loose assembly.

You can get away with using that plastic assembly you bought.....only in this specific application because once that unit is set, it's permanent.

I throw those plastic ones in the garbage whenever they come with the units. Sometimes the nut will will crack and release the strainer from its connection.

Taking one out can be a joy as well; at least with brass if it was doped on the threads before install it will come out with ease......but it wouldn't be plumbing if it was easy.

Ok thanks Rugged,

I'm now leaning towards the brass fitting. Either way, I have a question about the vertical piece that will be "left long" sticking up through the shower drain and cut after the shower pan is in place. Does this get cut flush with the shower pan? How could i cut it any lower if that is neccesary?

TIA,
Molo

You cut that pipe flush with the black rubber donut that is compressed into that cup in the finished position.

Then, take a inside pipe cutter that you put in your drill and carefully cut that pipe within tolerance of the rubber sleeve.

Otherwise if you leave it too high or uneven the cover may not snap in flush to the opening of the drain.

RUGGED said:

Have to mark centers of your fixture and rough-in the drain already trapped with a standpipe that will be centered to the drain.

I use those all brass drains with compression ferrule that makes a positive water-tight seal to the drain assembly.


Then all you have to do is cut the PVC pipe flush with the top of that ferrule so that you can snap the drain cover on.

Click to expand...

Where do you buy these brass drains with compression ferule?

I can not find one at any of my local stores. I don't even now what they look like This is a shower unit only.
Can anyone advise me on any tricks for using the common drain with the rubber gasket inside of it?

TIA,
Molo

Please Check out the previous post. I'm beginning to think this brass shower drain with compression ferulle is the Holy Grail of the plumbing world. Can anyone tell me about these things and check out my previous post please. I can't find any store or information on this part that I need for connecting the shower drain to the vertical 2"pvc coming out of the floor where I have no access to the underside of the shower.


TIA,
Molo