View Full Version : what way would be best to install a marble threshold at this point
I remodeled a bathroom and decided to keep the existing ceramic floor tiles,as they were in great shape grout and all. I would like to install a marble threshold. Right now, the carpet from the short hall way butts up against the tiles edge that runs just a little past the halfway point of the width of the bottom of the door jamb. At this point would it be advisable to cut back the tile difference with a roto zip..? would this do it... clean cut,won't crack or break other tiles from the vibrations etc.? making a recessed area for the marble threshold.Or, would the done in less than 10 minutes job work by just cutting the threshold to length,notch out the necessary door stop on either side of the door jamb and adhere the threshold to the existing tile? The threshold heights i can get are 3/8", 5/8" or 3/4" all 2" wide. If this helps any... The 3/8" height leaves a gap from the top of the threshold to the bottom of the door @3/4", the 5/8" threshold has a door to threshold gap of @1/2", the 3/4" has a gap of @ 1/4". Considerations i have had. Would the 5/8" or the 3/4" threshold be to high and create a possible trip and fall or almost fall. Thank you, for any professional advice or any others input on this!
12-26-2006, 10:51 AM
assuming you are comfortable with routers and other dangerous tools....
i would advise leaving the marble intact. Marble might crack somewhere, if you slice a notch out to accommodate the different levels of the two floors. Marble is natural stone with veins and natural imperfections in it.
12-26-2006, 02:05 PM
You might get lucky cutting the tile. I've had good results removing tile, cleaning the old mortar off, cutting on a wet saw, then resetting and re-grouting. Never tried cutting then breaking them out. I've used a hammer and chisel to cut concrete board in place. That is probably how I would attack the situation so that I could install the threashold then tile up to it.
12-26-2006, 07:22 PM
A RotoZip with a diamond saw blade would definately work. Just don't try to do it all at once, you'll burn it. Allow about 10 sec of cooling for every minute of cutting. The biggest drawback to using a RotoZip is that you are not going to cut right up to the door frame. You're gonna leave at least a 1/2" uncut. Then you'll have to score the tile, and chip it out. Lotsa luck.
12-26-2006, 08:07 PM
If using a roto-zip I have a little suggestion... try not to free-hand it...set up a fence, cutting guide...make it out of whatever you have available that will work..cut in the direction that pulls the cutter toward the fence so you get a clean/straight line. A little misting or oil might help keep the blade cool and prevent burning it up so quickly.
Geniescience,Randyj and Pewterpower, Thank you all for your replys i think i will more than likely cut the 2"x36" with a friends wet saw to the needed 28", and notch out the door stop as necessary and adhere the threshold to the existing ceramic floor tiles. Another tip i got from a tile setter is if i go this route to attack the problem scuff up the floor tile with some sandpaper where the threshold is to be adhered to,for better bonding.
12-26-2006, 09:45 PM
The biggest drawback to using a RotoZip is that you are not going to cut right up to the door frame.
Rotozip is releasing a new "X-Shield" that supposedly lets you make flush cuts. There's also a larger and tougher diamond blade and a new wood blade called "X-Wheels" that go with it. I've already put my order in for them. Here's a link to their marketing video:
12-28-2006, 03:47 PM
FWIW, a threshold can be high, and it won't make people trip on it. I like high thresholds, since they help block noise from traveling out the bathroom and down the hall.
The biggest danger is not from thresholds, but from floors that are not on the same level. Since your two floors are at the same level, or very close to the same level, you have no big hazard.
A high threshold does not create problems. Most mature adults step over thresholds, in any case. It's a matter of practice, experience, and learning. Kids and teenagers step on them. Kinda like what they do to puddles in rainy climates. :)
In a bathroom, the small small risk is even less that ever, since nobody is going anywhere far. I mean the walls are so close that the average body is expecting to have to stop real soon anyway.
12-28-2006, 04:54 PM
You can cut the tile with a carbide or diamond burr in a roto-zip, or even a Dremel. Common burr is one that's made for grout removal, it will cut right under the door jamb freehand, the trick is to plunge all the way through the tile and keep it at that depth. If using a Dremel, it will likely get real hot, do it in several cuts of about 30 seconds letting the machine dissipate heat between.
For adhesion, the best stone-to-tile or tile-to-tile product I know of is Ardex, an epoxy mastic that (used to be) carried by HD, probably still available somewhere. Polyurethane glue can also do an amazing job of sticking stone to tile while also creating its own bedding surface, the trick is to keep it away from the edge since it foams up and is darn near impossible to remove.