View Full Version : Adjustable P-Trap

09-17-2004, 06:00 PM
I am installing a new trap under my bathtub, using 2" PVC. The vent is in the valve wall for the tub, next to the waste and overflow. In order to get the required 4" minimum length trap arm, I have to angle the J-bend away from the san-tee, then set the outlet and trap arm at an angle, so the trap sort of doubles back on itself.

If you think of the two pieces of a regular P-trap being at 180 degrees (i.e. in a straight line), the J-bend and the trap arm in this case are at about a 90 degree angle to each other, or maybe a little less.

Is this code? I can't find any reference to this situation in any of my sources.

If it is code, is it significantly more prone to clogging? The trap is in an accessible crawl space, so I'm inclined to use a P-Trap with a nut, for easier cleaning.

Any help anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated.

09-17-2004, 07:30 PM

Your installation might look close to the one pictured. The p-trap although not shown here can swing from left to right as it needs to as long as the inlet of the trap remains level, (the trap cannot tilt from one side to another). The bathtub waste outlet should line up directly above the trap inlet.

09-17-2004, 07:55 PM
It is acceptable to use the trap as you described. It is not against code, will not be prone to clog and is an acceptable practice amontst us. Isn't it posters?

09-17-2004, 09:10 PM
Thanks, e-plumber and Lonny. e-plumber's picture is pretty close to what I've got, give or take an 1/8 bend. Lonny, thanks for the reassurance: it just looks so damn weird I got to wondering.

09-18-2004, 04:29 AM
Weird Plumbing may be the name of one of Terry's rock bands :o .

09-18-2004, 07:21 AM
It is a common way to install the trap, that is why they make it adjustable. But forget the slip joint. It is usually better to have water in the tub and then snake through the overflow for two reasons. First, you will be able to tell when you reach the obstruction because the water will start flowing, and second, the flowing water will flush the obstruction away better than just running a faucet after you have put the slip joint trap back together.

09-18-2004, 10:44 PM
Thanks, hcj, you make a good point about snaking from the tub.

I ended up using all solvent welded PVC, including replacing the waste and overflow for the tub. I don't trust that thin plastic stuff that's the same size as tubular brass, which is what was in there. It wasn't leaking... yet... but it always does, sooner or later. Since everything on both sides of the trap is glued, a trap with a nut doesn't accomplish much!

In addition to the point you made, this way I have one less thing that can leak.